Every time I set my foot on that ridge, my heart beats like it did the first time.
Two Summits, One Line of Air
The full traverse connects the Western Lyskamm (4,481 m) with the Eastern Lyskamm (4,527 m): two kilometres of narrow ridge between the Grenz and Lys glaciers, straddling Italy and Switzerland. In some sections, it’s as wide as a single boot: you walk along a line of snow. In others, you’re forced just below the crest, on steep slopes that are always exposed. There are also sections of mixed terrain, making the ascent even more rewarding and complete — a true alpine ridge climbing experience.
The classic route is done over two days. You start from the Gressoney side, taking the lift to Passo Bettaforca, then walk for about two hours to the Quintino Sella Hut. Alternatively, you can start from Capanna Gnifetti and descend to Sella.
The true Lyskamm ascent begins at dawn the next day, with headlamps lit and crampons biting into the ice.
On the Ridge: Technique and Focus
The ascent of Western Lyskamm is graded AD, with rock passages up to grade II and snowy slopes between 35° and 45°. But the real key is focus. This is alpine ridge climbing at its most demanding and rewarding: exposed, technical, and mentally engaging.
Sometimes the track is obvious, other times it needs to be read carefully. Calm, attention and respect are essential.
There’s a specific point where I always stop: a rocky outcrop before the traverse. From there, you can see the Matterhorn rising to the northwest and, on a clear day, even Mont Blanc. It’s a moment when everything falls into perspective.
Timing, Season, Conditions
The full traverse takes between 8 and 12 hours hut to hut, depending on pace and conditions. The ridge alone may take 4–5 hours. The total elevation gain is about 1,000 metres up and down.
Best period: mid-July to late August.
June is often unstable, and September can already bring bare ice.
A good weather window makes all the difference. And a well-trodden track is gold: it saves time and, more importantly, mental energy.
What to Bring in Your Pack
Rope
Harness, helmet, carabiners, slings
Sharpened crampons
Classic ice axe
30–35L backpack
Windproof shell, down jacket, fleece, thermal layers
Two pairs of gloves, hat, category 4 sunglasses
1L water bottle, energy snacks
Every gram counts, but never at the expense of safety. Good thermal protection is essential: wind and cold are constant companions up there.
Variants and Combinations
For a more complete experience, you can climb Castor the day before: great acclimatisation and a sunset worth remembering.
After the traverse, spend the night at the Gnifetti Hut and continue to Capanna Margherita the next day.
Or, if conditions aren’t ideal, you can opt for the Naso del Lyskamm: less exposed but always interesting — yet still offering a taste of true alpine ridge climbing.
The Value of a Guide
Reading the ridge, spotting a fragile cornice, choosing whether to shorten or extend the rope — these are quick decisions that make a difference.
And at the same time, knowing when to stop for a photo or a drink… it’s not just about safety, it’s about freedom.
Freedom to feel, to observe, to be moved.
An Experience That Stays With You
The Lyskamm ascent isn’t just another mountaineering route. It’s an exercise in presence.
It teaches you to stay sharp, to trust your steps, to truly feel the mountain — especially on such a committing alpine ridge climbing route.
Whenever I return from there, I feel deeply fulfilled. Every ascent has its own rhythm, every rope team its own story.
And every time someone says, “I’d love to do Lyskamm,” I feel that spark of good adrenaline — the kind that tells you it’s absolutely worth it.
If you dream of walking that ribbon of snow, know that you won’t be alone. Up there, it’s always a choice. And every step is worth it.
Ready to walk the line where air, snow and silence meet?
Join us on one of the most iconic alpine ridge climbing experiences in the Alps.
Book your Lyskamm traverse today.
Suspended in White: meet the author
Alberto Zucchetti is an IFMGA mountain guide and seasoned alpinist, with experience gained on peaks all over the world. But more than a profession, mountaineering is his lifelong passion. The mountains are part of who he is—even when he’s off duty. Quiet, kind, and full of positive energy, he’s climbed major faces without ever seeking the spotlight. Roped up with Alberto, you feel calm and confident. Every step is precise and steady. He knows each route by heart and always understands when to move forward—or when to wait. For him, true beauty lies in living the mountains, not proving anything.
