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1,100.00

Activities

Nose of the Lyskamm ridge

Level: Advanced
Start date: 1 June
End date: 14 September
Participants: Max 1

My goal

A long and spectacular ridge between the peaks of Monte Rosa. The route offers easy climbing sections in a magnificent and wild environment. Rarely frequented, it provides a unique and solitary experience. The Mamo Comotti bivouac is an extraordinary stopover. For those seeking a more complete adventure, it is possible to continue to the summit of the Eastern Lyskamm, following the spectacular Sella Ridge.

Nose of the Lyskamm ridge summary:

  • Grade: AD+
  • Elevation gain (Day 1): 1800 meters to the Mamo Comotti Bivouac (6-7 hours)
  • Elevation gain (Day 2): 600 meters (3-4 hours ascent, 6 hours to Lyskamm, 3-4 hours descent)
  • Maximum altitude: Lyskamm Nose, 4272 m

Want to prepare for the Nose Ridge? Test yourself on the easy climbing of the Cresta del Soldato.

Admire the Lyskamm from the Margherita Hut.

1 alpinist: €1100.00

The price includes: IFMGA -certified Monte Rosa mountain guide for two days of the ascent, technical equipment, overnight stay at the Mamo bivouac, ski pass

Not included in the price: accident insurance (recommended), meals not specified for both the client and the guide, anything not mentioned under “the price includes.”

Day 1
Meet the guide at Saffal (Gressoney) and ascend to the Mamo Comotti Bivouac.

Day 2
Depart at dawn for the epic ascent to the Lyskamm Nose, 4272 m. The route will take approximately 4-5 hours.

– 5 layers of clothing for the upper body (thermal shirt, light fleece, heavy fleece, down jacket, anorak.)
– two set of gloves (soft and ski ones)
– heavy trousers (windproof)
– underpants
– gaiters
– rigid, ankle height, waterproof boots
– two pair of ski socks
– hat that covers your ears
– sunglasses (with 3 or 4 protection)
– sun screen & lip balm
– ice axe (if are used to it)
– harness & crampons
– headlamp
– sleeping bag liner
– 1lt water bottle/thermos
– poles
– helmet (recommended but not compulsory)

ATTENTION: The sleeping bag liner is mandatory in all shelters. We recommend a lightweight but, above all, reusable sleeping bag liner. Let’s protect the mountains from waste. We use this one.

Monte Rosa guides ascend the Nose Ridge with one climber per guide.

Given the difficulty, we will ask for a brief phone or video call meeting.

  • Monte Rosa guides may modify itineraries and activity programs based on weather conditions, hut accessibility, and participants’ physical preparedness.
  • The planned activity periods may vary due to weather conditions and the physical state of the terrain (snow coverage, ground conditions, etc.).

Mountaineering carries inherent risks, including serious injury or death. All Monte Rosa guides are IFMGA certified and are committed to minimizing these risks. However, it is important to understand that the risk cannot be completely eliminated, and this is something you acknowledge when signing a booking contract with us.

The guides will assist you in achieving your objectives and ensuring an enjoyable experience. Trusting their judgment and accepting their decisions is crucial. Being well-prepared and physically fit is essential to ensuring safety during ascents.

If the guide deems you unready for the booked ascent, they will suggest an appropriate alternative. In the event of unforeseen bad weather that makes the ascent dangerous, the guide will propose an agreed alternative climb.


FAQ #1 – Will I suffer from altitude sickness?
High altitude can cause altitude sickness, with symptoms such as headaches, nausea, fatigue, and difficulty concentrating. These symptoms can vary from person to person. Gradual acclimatization helps reduce the risk and intensity of symptoms. Being in good physical shape and well-trained makes the experience less strenuous.
FAQ #2 – Are there any medications that can help with altitude sickness?
Altitude sickness is highly subjective, and there is no one-size-fits-all solution. It is advisable to bring only the headache and nausea medications that you are already familiar with and have used before. Nevertheless, we recommend consulting your primary healthcare provider for personalized advice
FAQ #3 – What happens if I feel unwell during the ascent?
If you feel unwell in the refuge, we will organize an early descent. If you feel unwell along the route, we will turn back. In the case of severe discomfort, the accompanying guide will alert rescue services, and you will be evacuated by helicopter.
FAQ #4 – Can I join a group if I’m alone?
No, we do not organize group climbs for this experience.
FAQ #5 – Can I rent high mountain clothing and equipment?
You can rent equipment (boots, poles, ice axe) in Alagna, Gressoney and Champoluc. However, it will not be possible to rent clothing.
FAQ #6 – If I do not reach the summit, will I be refunded?
No, there will be no refunds as you will have already used the refuge, guide, and lifts.
FAQ #7 – What is the required fitness level for the excursion?
To successfully complete this experience, it is essential to have good physical endurance and adequate training that allows you to sustain at least 4-5 hours of uphill hiking and the same amount of time downhill. Preparing with specific training will help you better face the challenges of the route and fully enjoy the adventure.

Populate the form and secure your spot now!

Nose of the Lyskamm ridge

1,100.00


INSURANCE

Our packages do not include insurance. Since many of you are members of mountain clubs, which offer excellent coverage for their members, or already have personal insurance, we aim to avoid redundancy.

However, if you are not yet insured (and we highly recommend you consider it) and would like coverage for:

  • Medical assistance and expenses in case of injury, 24/7 assistance and reimbursement of medical expenses, Search and rescue costs, Emergency support, Reimbursement for unused lessons, equipment, accommodations, and passes, Civil liability for damages to third parties during outdoor activities

you can explore the available options on Europ Assistance or on L’Arca Assicurazioni.

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