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Activities

Overnight at Capanna Margherita — 4,554 m

Level: 2
Season: Summer
Duration: 3 days
Participants: Max 5

My goal

We’ll climb to Capanna Margherita to spend a night at 4,554 metres, on Punta Gnifetti. The three-day itinerary spreads the effort and allows more time to adjust to the altitude than the classic two-day ascent. Once we arrive, we’ll stay at the hut until the following morning, experiencing sunset and waking up in the high mountains.

Where you’ll go

We’ll take the lifts to Punta Indren and climb to Capanna Gnifetti or Rifugio Mantova, where we’ll spend our first night. The following day, we’ll continue as a roped team across Monte Rosa’s glaciers to Capanna Margherita. After our second overnight stay, we’ll descend to Punta Indren and take the lifts back to the valley.

What it requires

You need a good level of fitness and experience walking for several hours on mountain trails. Previous glacier experience is not required, but you must be ready to use crampons and a climbing harness and walk as part of a roped team. The extra time does not remove the physical demands or the effects of altitude: spending a night at 4,554 metres requires careful attention to how you respond.

How you’ll be guided

An IFMGA Mountain Guide will accompany us throughout the three days. Your guide will check the equipment, manage the roped team and adapt the pace and itinerary to your fitness, mountain conditions and response to altitude. The ascent and overnight stay at Capanna Margherita will depend on these assessments.

1 participant: €2,000.00
2 participants: €1,190.00 per person
3 participants: €920.00 per person
4 participants: €780.00 per person
5 participants: €710.00 per person

Travelling alone and would like to join a group? Explore the group departure.

The price includes

  • An IFMGA Mountain Guide for three days.
  • Half board at Capanna Gnifetti or Rifugio Mantova.
  • Half board at Capanna Margherita.
  • Return lift pass to Punta Indren.
  • Technical equipment: crampons, climbing harness and helmet.

Not included in the price

Personal accident insurance (recommended), meals not specified, anything not listed under “The price includes”.

Day 1 — From Punta Indren to the hut

We’ll meet at 2:30 pm at Passo dei Salati to meet the guide, check our gear and collect the technical equipment. We’ll then take the cable car to Punta Indren and begin our ascent on foot to Capanna Gnifetti or Rifugio Mantova.

We’ll walk at a steady pace with breaks, dedicating the afternoon to this first stage at altitude. We expect to reach the hut at approximately 4:00 pm, with time to settle in and prepare our equipment for the following day.

Dinner and overnight stay at Capanna Gnifetti or Rifugio Mantova.

Day 2 — Ascent and overnight stay at Capanna Margherita

We’ll set off at dawn and climb as a roped team across Monte Rosa’s glaciers towards Capanna Margherita, at 4,554 metres on Punta Gnifetti.

Our guide will set the pace and breaks according to the route conditions and our response to altitude. We expect to arrive around mid-morning, provided conditions and our pace allow.

We’ll spend the rest of the day at the hut, with time to rest and enjoy the views. If the sky is clear, we’ll be able to watch the sunset over the peaks before dinner.

Dinner and overnight stay at Capanna Margherita.

Day 3 — Descent to Punta Indren and return to the valley

After breakfast, we’ll begin our roped descent towards Punta Indren. Along the way, we’ll pass near Cristo delle Vette and Piramide Vincent; climbing these peaks is not part of the itinerary.

Once we reach Punta Indren, we’ll take the lifts back to Alagna or Gressoney, depending on the agreed starting point and lift operations.

We expect to return to the valley by approximately 12:00 noon, depending on conditions and our pace during the descent.

For the ascent to Capanna Margherita, you’ll need:

  • mountaineering clothing suitable for high altitude and changing conditions
  • mountaineering boots
  • a 30–35-litre backpack
  • sunglasses with category 3 or 4 protection
  • SPF 50+ sunscreen
  • protective lip balm
  • a sleeping bag liner for overnight stays in the huts

We provide crampons, a climbing harness and a helmet, all included in the price. If you already have your own equipment, bring it: using gear you know is preferable.

After booking, we’ll send you a complete, detailed equipment list, with guidance on clothing, technical gear and accessories to bring. This will help you pack for the itinerary and the expected conditions. In the meantime, you can read our mountaineering equipment guide for Monte Rosa.

Mountaineering, ski touring, off-piste skiing and trekking take place in a natural, uncontrolled environment.
Weather conditions, snow, ice, terrain, visibility, altitude and physical fatigue can change rapidly and directly affect the course of the activity. For this reason, there is always an inherent level of objective risk, which cannot be eliminated but only managed.

All our activities are led by IFMGA Mountain Guides and Certified Hiking Guides (AMM).
The guide continuously assesses environmental conditions and the physical and mental state of participants, sets an appropriate pace, manages progression and ensures the correct use of equipment. If conditions require it, the guide may modify the itinerary or interrupt the activity, always in the interest of individual and group safety.

Participants are required to be in good physical and mental condition, adequately prepared for the level of the activity, and to follow the guide’s instructions at all times.

Group activities

During group outings, the pace is set according to the slowest participant. In case of fatigue or discomfort, the guide may decide to adjust the programme or return early. In the mountains, the group ascends and returns together.

Learn more here


FAQ #1 – Do I need mountaineering experience?

Previous glacier experience is not required. However, you need a good level of fitness and experience walking for several hours in the mountains. Your IFMGA Mountain Guide will explain how to use crampons and move as part of a roped team.

FAQ #2 – Does taking three days make the ascent less demanding?

The itinerary spreads the effort and allows more time to adjust to altitude than the two-day ascent. However, the climb remains demanding and includes an overnight stay at 4,554 metres: the extra day does not guarantee acclimatisation.

FAQ #3 – Could I feel unwell at altitude?

Yes, even if you are fit or have previously felt well at high altitude. Everyone responds differently. If you feel unwell, tell your guide immediately so they can assess whether to change the itinerary or descend.

FAQ #4 – Where will we sleep, and do I need a sleeping bag?

We’ll spend the first night at Capanna Gnifetti or Rifugio Mantova and the second at Capanna Margherita, provided conditions allow. You do not need a sleeping bag, but you must bring a sleeping bag liner, which is compulsory in the huts.

FAQ #5 – Can I take part on my own?

Yes. You can choose this private option with a dedicated guide or join a group departure. You’ll find the link to the group option in the Price section.

FAQ #6 – Is the overnight stay at Capanna Margherita guaranteed?

No. Weather, glacier conditions and participants’ response to altitude may require a change of itinerary or cancellation of the overnight stay. Your IFMGA Mountain Guide will assess whether to continue, stop or return.

FAQ #7 – Will I receive a refund if we do not reach Capanna Margherita?

If the guide decides to change or stop the itinerary during the activity because of mountain conditions or participants’ condition, the guiding service has still been provided. No refund is offered for not reaching the destination.

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Overnight at Capanna Margherita — 4,554 m

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Insurance

Before departure, check that your insurance policy specifically covers mountaineering, glacier travel, altitude, trip cancellation, repatriation, and personal liability. For more information, read our complete guide to mountain insurance.

WINTER

Level 1 – Explore
First freeride experiences. Controlled turns and a relaxed pace on accessible terrain.

Level 2 – Advanced
Confident skiing on ungroomed snow and able to maintain a good pace throughout the day.

Level 3 – Technical
Regular freeride experience, including on steeper terrain and in more exposed situations.


SUMMER

Level 1 – First experience
You should be comfortable with normal mountain hiking. No previous mountaineering or glacier experience is required.

Level 2 – Basic experience
You should already have completed hikes of several hours on mountain trails. Previous glacier experience or use of crampons is not required, but you should be ready to use them for the first time.

Level 3 – Mountaineering experience
Previous experience using crampons and travelling roped together on a glacier is required. The route may include short exposed sections.

Level 4 – Advanced experience
Solid experience using crampons and travelling roped together is required. The route may include exposed ridges, steep slopes and mixed terrain.

Level 5 – Experienced mountaineer
Strong experience on technical high-mountain routes is required. The route may include very exposed sections, climbing on rock, ice or mixed terrain, and may require knowledge of the main rope techniques.

The level indicates the technical experience required, not the physical effort.
The actual difficulty may vary depending on mountain conditions and the route.