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Lyskamm Nose Traverse to Capanna Margherita – 4,554 m

Monte Rosa Booking > Products > Lyskamm Nose Traverse to Capanna Margherita – 4,554 m

Level: 4

Season: Summer

Duration: 3 days

Participants: Max 3

My goal

Three days of mountaineering on Monte Rosa, crossing the Naso del Lyskamm at 4,272 metres and spending a night at Capanna Margherita, the highest mountain hut in Europe.

We’ll cross Monte Rosa on a three-day mountaineering journey, following the Naso del Lyskamm route to reach Capanna Margherita at 4,554 metres.

Unlike the classic ascent to Capanna Margherita, this itinerary takes us through a more demanding and varied section of the massif. We’ll cross glaciers, climb steep snow slopes, follow high-altitude ridges and spend two nights in mountain huts.

Our journey begins at Rifugio Quintino Sella. From there, we’ll climb the Naso del Lyskamm, descend towards the Lys Glacier and continue to Capanna Margherita. On the final day, we’ll descend towards Punta Indren, with the possibility of climbing additional 4,000-metre peaks along the way.

This three-day traverse is designed for mountaineers who already have experience at altitude and want to explore Monte Rosa beyond its normal routes.

Where you’ll go

We’ll start from Staffal, in Gressoney, and take the lifts to Colle della Bettaforca. From here, we’ll climb to Rifugio Quintino Sella (3,585 m), where we’ll spend our first night.

The following morning, we’ll cross the Felik Glacier and climb the Naso del Lyskamm (4,272 m). After descending its eastern side, we’ll continue across the Lys Glacier towards Colle del Lys and Capanna Margherita (4,554 m).

We’ll spend our second night at Capanna Margherita, on Punta Gnifetti.

On the third day, we’ll descend across the glaciers towards Punta Indren. If conditions and timing allow, we may also climb Cristo delle Vette and the Vincent Pyramid before returning to the valley.

What it takes

This is an advanced mountaineering route, graded PD, with snow and ice slopes reaching approximately 40°.

You’ll need previous high-altitude mountaineering experience, good physical fitness and confidence using crampons on steep terrain. You should also be comfortable travelling roped together across glaciers and moving on exposed sections.

The second day is particularly demanding, with approximately 1,300 metres of ascent, 400 metres of descent and several hours above 4,000 metres.

You should be able to maintain a steady pace throughout a long mountaineering day, even when altitude and fatigue make progress more demanding.

If you’d like to strengthen your technical skills before this traverse, you can explore our mountaineering courses on Monte Rosa .

How you’ll be guided

An IFMGA Mountain Guide will accompany you throughout the three days, with a maximum of three participants per guide.

We’ll move together as a rope team across glaciers, steep snow slopes and exposed terrain. Your guide will choose the safest appropriate line, manage rope techniques and adjust the pace according to your experience and the conditions.

Because this is a private programme, we can adapt the pace and certain aspects of the itinerary to your preparation and objectives.

We’ll assess snow, ice, weather and glacier conditions throughout the journey. When necessary, we’ll modify the route or the programme to maintain an appropriate level of safety.

Our aim is not simply to reach Capanna Margherita, but to give you the opportunity to experience a complete high-altitude traverse, with the time, preparation and guidance this route requires.

Price

1 alpinist € 2100,00
2 alpinists € 1250,00 / person
3 alpinists € 960,00 / person

Solo but want to join this trip? Check the groups section.

The price includes

IFMGA Mountain Guide for three days
Half-board accommodation at Rifugio Quintino Sella
Half-board accommodation at Capanna Margherita
Cable car ticket to Colle della Bettaforca
Return lift ticket from Punta Indren
Technical equipment: harness and crampons

The price does not include

Personal accident insurance, meals not specified, and anything not listed under “The price includes”.

Program

Day 1 – Bettaforca to Rifugio Quintino Sella (3,585 m)

We’ll meet your IFMGA Mountain Guide in Staffal, Gressoney, check your equipment and take the lifts to Colle della Bettaforca.

From here, we’ll begin our ascent towards Rifugio Quintino Sella. The trail follows the ridge separating the Gressoney Valley from Val d’Ayas, with rocky sections and equipped passages near the hut.

We’ll maintain a steady pace, allowing you to gain altitude gradually and prepare for the following day’s traverse.

Once at the hut, we’ll have time to rest, enjoy dinner and discuss the route and mountain conditions with your guide.

Elevation gain: approximately 860 m
Walking time: 3–4 hours
Overnight: Rifugio Quintino Sella (3,585 m)

Day 2 – Naso del Lyskamm (4,272 m) to Capanna Margherita (4,554 m)

We’ll leave the hut at dawn, put on our crampons and rope up before crossing the Felik Glacier.

Our first objective is the Naso del Lyskamm (4,272 m). We’ll climb across glaciated terrain and snow slopes reaching approximately 40°, before following the final ridge towards the summit.

From here, we’ll descend the eastern side of the Naso and reach the Lys Glacier. We’ll then begin another ascent towards Colle del Lys, continuing across the high-altitude glaciers of Monte Rosa until we reach Capanna Margherita.

This is the most demanding day of the traverse. We’ll combine steep ascents, glacier crossings and long sections above 4,000 metres.

At Capanna Margherita, we’ll have dinner and spend the night at 4,554 metres, with the opportunity to experience sunset and sunrise high above the surrounding valleys.

Elevation gain: approximately 1,300 m
Elevation loss: approximately 400 m
Walking time: 6–7 hours
Maximum slope: approximately 40°
Overnight: Capanna Margherita (4,554 m)

Day 3 – Capanna Margherita to Punta Indren

After breakfast at Capanna Margherita, we’ll rope up and begin our descent across the glaciers of Monte Rosa.

If snow conditions, visibility, timing and the group’s fitness allow, we may include the Cristo delle Vette and Vincent Pyramid (4,215 m), adding further 4,000-metre summits to our journey.

We’ll then continue descending towards Punta Indren, where we’ll take the lifts back to the valley.

This final day completes our traverse from the Gressoney side of Monte Rosa, across the Naso del Lyskamm and the high glaciers surrounding Capanna Margherita.

Elevation loss: approximately 1,300 m
Walking time: 5–6 hours
Return: Punta Indren, followed by the lifts to the valley

All walking times and elevation changes are approximate. Your IFMGA Mountain Guide may adapt the itinerary according to weather, glacier conditions, snow stability and the abilities of the rope team.

Equipment required

For the Naso del Lyskamm traverse and the ascent to Capanna Margherita, you’ll need:

Mountaineering boots suitable for crampons
Technical layered clothing for high-altitude mountaineering
Warm gloves, spare gloves and a warm hat
Mountaineering helmet
Backpack of approximately 30–35 litres
Category 4 sunglasses and high-protection sunscreen
Headlamp with spare batteries
Water, thermos and energy snacks

Technical equipment provided by us: harness, crampons an ice axe.

After booking, we’ll send you a complete and detailed equipment list, including clothing, technical gear and essential accessories. This will help you prepare your backpack according to the programme and the expected mountain conditions.

Please, pay attention here

Mountaineering, ski touring, off-piste skiing and trekking take place in a natural, uncontrolled environment.
Weather conditions, snow, ice, terrain, visibility, altitude and physical fatigue can change rapidly and directly affect the course of the activity. For this reason, there is always an inherent level of objective risk, which cannot be eliminated but only managed.

All our activities are led by IFMGA Mountain Guides and Certified Hiking Guides (AMM).
The guide continuously assesses environmental conditions and the physical and mental state of participants, sets an appropriate pace, manages progression and ensures the correct use of equipment. If conditions require it, the guide may modify the itinerary or interrupt the activity, always in the interest of individual and group safety.

Participants are required to be in good physical and mental condition, adequately prepared for the level of the activity, and to follow the guide’s instructions at all times.

Group activities

During group outings, the pace is set according to the slowest participant. In case of fatigue or discomfort, the guide may decide to adjust the programme or return early. In the mountains, the group ascends and returns together.

Learn more here

F.A.Q.

**FAQ #1** – How difficult is the Naso del Lyskamm traverse?

The traverse is graded PD and requires previous mountaineering experience. You’ll cross glaciers, climb snow and ice slopes of approximately 40° and move on exposed terrain. Good physical fitness, confidence with crampons and experience travelling roped together are essential.

**FAQ #2** – Do I need previous experience above 4,000 metres?

Previous experience at high altitude is strongly recommended. The second day involves a long traverse, with several hours above 4,000 metres and a night at Capanna Margherita (4,554 m).

If you’re unsure whether your experience is suitable, contact us before booking. We’ll help you evaluate your preparation and decide whether this is the right programme for you.

**FAQ #3** – Why does the programme take three days?

Three days allow us to divide the journey into manageable stages. We’ll reach Rifugio Quintino Sella on the first day, complete the Naso del Lyskamm traverse on the second and descend from Capanna Margherita on the third.

This schedule gives us time to prepare for the main traverse and enjoy the overnight stay at 4,554 metres. However, one night at Rifugio Quintino Sella does not guarantee full acclimatisation.

**FAQ #4** – Can I join the traverse on my own?

Yes. You can book the private programme as a solo participant, accompanied by an IFMGA Mountain Guide.

The maximum ratio is three participants per guide. If you’re travelling with friends, we’ll assess everyone’s experience and fitness to ensure the group is suitably prepared for the traverse.

**FAQ #5** – What happens if the weather or mountain conditions are unsuitable?

We’ll assess the weather, snow and glacier conditions before departure and throughout the programme.

If the Naso del Lyskamm traverse is unsuitable, your guide may propose an alternative itinerary on Monte Rosa, depending on the conditions and your experience.

We cannot guarantee a specific summit or route. Our priority is to choose an appropriate objective for the conditions and your abilities.

**FAQ #6** – What equipment do I need?

You’ll need suitable mountaineering boots, technical clothing for high altitude, warm gloves, a helmet, a headlamp and a backpack of approximately 30–35 litres.

We’ll provide a harness and crampons. After booking, we’ll send you a detailed equipment list so you can prepare properly for the three-day traverse.

**FAQ #7** – Can we climb additional 4,000-metre peaks during the traverse?

Yes, depending on the conditions and the group’s fitness.

On the final day, we may include Cristo delle Vette and Vincent Pyramid (4,215 m) before descending towards Punta Indren.

Your guide will assess the available time, weather, glacier conditions and the group’s energy before deciding whether to include these additional summits.

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Lyskamm Nose Traverse to Capanna Margherita – 4,554 m

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Categories: Activities, Capanna Margherita, Mountaineering, SPRING, SUMMER Tags: Bucket list, Enthusiasts, intermediate

Insurance

Before departure, check that your insurance policy specifically covers mountaineering, glacier travel, altitude, trip cancellation, repatriation, and personal liability. For more information, read our complete guide to mountain insurance.

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Lyskamm Nose Traverse to Capanna Margherita – 4,554 m