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Lyskamm Nose Traverse to Capanna Margherita

Monte Rosa Booking > Products > Lyskamm Nose Traverse to Capanna Margherita
Level: 4
Season: Summer
Duration: 3 days
Participants: Max 3

My goal

Three days of mountaineering through the heart of Monte Rosa, crossing the Naso del Lyskamm on the way to the Margherita Hut at 4,554 metres.

Most mountaineers reach the Margherita Hut by following the normal route to the Margherita Hut.

This journey takes a different line.

Starting from the Gressoney side of the mountain, you climb to the Quintino Sella Hut. At dawn on the second day, you enter the heart of Monte Rosa.

Wearing crampons and roped together, you cross the glacier and climb towards the Naso del Lyskamm at 4,272 metres. From here, the journey continues at altitude towards the Colle del Lys and the Margherita Hut at 4,554 metres.

This is a spectacular route because it is not simply about reaching a summit. It crosses Monte Rosa.

The landscape changes constantly, the distances are those of true high-altitude mountaineering, and the route requires you to walk confidently in crampons, maintain a steady pace and move safely as part of a rope team.

It crosses the same extraordinary terrain as the Monte Rosa Spaghetti Tour, condensed into three days and with one clear objective: reaching the Margherita Hut by a far more mountaineering-focused route than the normal ascent.

Not the easiest route. A route worth taking.

This climb is for people who have already experienced mountaineering and are ready to move beyond the normal routes.

You do not need to be an extreme mountaineer.

You do, however, need previous high-altitude experience, good physical fitness and confidence using crampons, moving on a rope and travelling across glaciated terrain. If you want to develop or consolidate these skills before the climb, discover our mountaineering courses on Monte Rosa.

On the Naso del Lyskamm, you are not simply heading towards a mountain hut. You are mountaineering.

Your Guide chooses the line, evaluates snow and ice conditions, manages the rope team and adapts the pace and route to the actual conditions. You need to stay focused, move efficiently and have the experience required for a long day at altitude.

For this reason, each IFMGA Mountain Guide accompanies a maximum of three mountaineers.

Not to make the experience sound exclusive, but because this is the right group size for the terrain we cross.

You can learn more about the way we work on our page dedicated to Monte Rosa Mountain Guides.

Cross the Naso del Lyskamm without completing the entire Spaghetti Tour

Many mountaineers cross the Naso del Lyskamm during the Monte Rosa Spaghetti Tour.

But you do not need to complete the entire tour to experience this route.

We have created a three-day journey that combines some of the finest elements of mountaineering on Monte Rosa:

Quintino Sella Hut → Naso del Lyskamm, 4,272 m → Colle del Lys → Margherita Hut, 4,554 m → Monte Rosa 4,000-metre peaks → Indren.

A compact, varied and complete traverse in which the Margherita Hut becomes the highest point of a mountaineering journey, rather than simply the final destination.

If you have already climbed a 4,000-metre peak and are now looking for something more complete than a normal route, this is your next step.

1 alpinist € 2200,00
2 alpinists € 1300,00 / person
3 alpinists € 980,00 / person

Solo but want to join this trip? Check the groups section.

The price includes: IFMGA Mountain Guide for three days, half board at the Quintino Sella Hut, half board at the Margherita Hut, cable car to Bettaforca, return lift from Indren, and technical equipment if required (harness and crampons).

The price does not include: anything not listed under “The price includes”.

Day 1 — Bettaforca → Quintino Sella Hut, 3,585 m

Meet your IFMGA Mountain Guide in Staffal, check your equipment and take the lifts to Bettaforca.

From here, the approach to the Quintino Sella Hut begins. We climb along the ridge separating the Gressoney Valley from the Val d’Ayas, reaching the rocky and equipped sections just below the hut.

We maintain a steady pace throughout the day, gaining altitude gradually and preparing for the major traverse ahead of us the following day.

Ascent: approximately 860 m · 3–4 hours · Highest point: 3,585 m
Terrain: alpine trail, rocky ridge and equipped sections

Day 2 — Quintino Sella Hut → Naso del Lyskamm, 4,272 m → Margherita Hut, 4,554 m

The major mountaineering day of the traverse.

We leave the Quintino Sella Hut at dawn, put on our crampons and rope up before stepping onto the glacier.

We cross the Felik Glacier and head towards the Naso del Lyskamm. The ascent follows glaciated terrain and slopes of up to approximately 40°, before reaching the ridge that leads to the summit at 4,272 metres.

From the Naso, we descend its eastern side and enter the vast glacial basin of the Lys. The day is far from over: we begin climbing again towards the Colle del Lys and continue to the Margherita Hut at 4,554 metres.

This is what makes the stage so complete: it is not simply a climb to a summit, but a true traverse involving ascent, descent, glacier travel, steeper slopes and many hours above 4,000 metres.

Ascent: approximately 1,300 m · Descent: approximately 400 m · 6–7 hours
Highest point: 4,554 m
Mountaineering grade: PD
Maximum slope: approximately 40°
Terrain: glacier, snow, ridge and mixed ground

Dinner and overnight stay at the Margherita Hut

Day 3 — Margherita Hut → Monte Rosa 4,000-metre peaks → Indren

After spending the night at 4,554 metres, we rope up again and begin our descent across the glaciers of Monte Rosa.

If conditions, timing and the ability of the rope team allow, we may climb Cristo delle Vette and the Vincent Pyramid along the way, adding further 4,000-metre summits to the traverse.

We then continue towards Punta Indren, where the mountaineering section of the route ends, before using the lifts to return to the valley.

Descent: approximately 1,300 m · 5–6 hours
Terrain: predominantly glaciated, with additional ascents and descents if the 4,000-metre peaks are included

3 days · Maximum 3 mountaineers · Highest point 4,554 m · PD · Slopes up to 40°

Elevation gains, elevation losses and timings are approximate. They may vary depending on the route across the glacier, mountain conditions and any additional summits climbed during the descent.

For the climb to the Margherita Hut, you will need:

  • mountaineering clothing suitable for high altitude and changing weather
  • mountaineering boots
  • 30–35 litre backpack
  • category 3 or 4 sunglasses
  • SPF 50+ sunscreen
  • protective lip balm

Crampons, harness and helmet are provided by us when required for the programme.

After booking, we will send you a complete equipment list covering clothing, technical gear and the personal items you need to bring. This allows you to prepare specifically for the programme and the conditions expected during your climb. For an itinerary such as the Naso del Lyskamm, the exact equipment may vary depending on glacier and mountain conditions.

Mountaineering, ski touring, off-piste skiing and trekking take place in a natural, uncontrolled environment.
Weather conditions, snow, ice, terrain, visibility, altitude and physical fatigue can change rapidly and directly affect the course of the activity. For this reason, there is always an inherent level of objective risk, which cannot be eliminated but only managed.

All our activities are led by IFMGA Mountain Guides and Certified Hiking Guides (AMM).
The guide continuously assesses environmental conditions and the physical and mental state of participants, sets an appropriate pace, manages progression and ensures the correct use of equipment. If conditions require it, the guide may modify the itinerary or interrupt the activity, always in the interest of individual and group safety.

Participants are required to be in good physical and mental condition, adequately prepared for the level of the activity, and to follow the guide’s instructions at all times.

Group activities

During group outings, the pace is set according to the slowest participant. In case of fatigue or discomfort, the guide may decide to adjust the programme or return early. In the mountains, the group ascends and returns together.

? Learn more here

FAQ #1 – Can altitude sickness be a problem on this climb?

Yes. The Margherita Hut sits at 4,554 metres, and altitude can cause headaches, nausea, fatigue or other symptoms even in very fit people. Acclimatisation helps, but everyone responds differently to altitude. Your IFMGA Mountain Guide monitors the group throughout the climb and can adjust the pace or programme when needed.

FAQ #2 – What happens if I feel unwell during the climb?

Tell your guide as soon as you start feeling unwell. At high altitude, symptoms should not be ignored or pushed through simply to keep going. Your IFMGA Mountain Guide will assess the situation and decide whether to slow down, stop, change the route or descend, depending on your condition and the situation on the mountain.

FAQ #3 – Can I join if I am travelling alone?

Yes, if there is a group departure suitable for your level. The Naso del Lyskamm requires previous mountaineering experience, so before confirming your place we check that participants have the skills and experience needed for the route.

FAQ #4 – Do I need to bring a sleeping bag?

No, you do not need a traditional sleeping bag. A sleeping bag liner is compulsory in the huts. We recommend bringing a lightweight, reusable one that is easy to carry in your backpack.

FAQ #5 – What happens if I do not reach the Margherita Hut? Will I get a refund?

Reaching the Margherita Hut cannot be guaranteed. Weather, glacier conditions, altitude, route conditions or the condition of an individual participant may make it necessary to change or stop the climb. If the guide decides that continuing is not appropriate, the guiding service has still been provided and no refund is due solely because the objective was not reached.

FAQ #6 – What level of fitness and experience do I need for the Naso del Lyskamm route?

You need good physical fitness and previous mountaineering experience. You should already be comfortable using crampons, travelling roped together on a glacier and moving on more technical and exposed terrain. The Naso del Lyskamm is not suitable as a first 4,000-metre climb: you need both the endurance to move efficiently at altitude and the confidence to stay focused for several hours.

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Lyskamm Nose Traverse to Capanna Margherita

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Insurance

Before departure, check that your insurance policy specifically covers mountaineering, glacier travel, altitude, trip cancellation, repatriation, and personal liability. For more information, read our complete guide to mountain insurance.

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WINTER

Level 1 – Explore
First freeride experiences. Controlled turns and a relaxed pace on accessible terrain.

Level 2 – Advanced
Confident skiing on ungroomed snow and able to maintain a good pace throughout the day.

Level 3 – Technical
Regular freeride experience, including on steeper terrain and in more exposed situations.

SUMMER

Level 1 – First experience
You should be comfortable with normal mountain hiking. No previous mountaineering or glacier experience is required.

Level 2 – Basic experience
You should already have completed hikes of several hours on mountain trails. Previous glacier experience or use of crampons is not required, but you should be ready to use them for the first time.

Level 3 – Mountaineering experience
Previous experience using crampons and travelling roped together on a glacier is required. The route may include short exposed sections.

Level 4 – Advanced experience
Solid experience using crampons and travelling roped together is required. The route may include exposed ridges, steep slopes and mixed terrain.

Level 5 – Experienced mountaineer
Strong experience on technical high-mountain routes is required. The route may include very exposed sections, climbing on rock, ice or mixed terrain, and may require knowledge of the main rope techniques.

The level indicates the technical experience required, not the physical effort.
The actual difficulty may vary depending on mountain conditions and the route.