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Activities

Climb to Castor Peak

Level: 3
Season: Summer
Duration: 2 days
Participants: Max 4

My goal

Two days on Monte Rosa, from Rifugio Quintino Sella to Castore’s summit ridge.

We’ll climb a route combining glacier travel and ridge climbing, building on your initial mountaineering experience. Castore is suited to those who want to progress after their first 4,000-metre peak and gain confidence on more varied and exposed terrain.

Where we’ll go

We’ll start in Staffal, Gressoney, and take the lifts to Colle Bettaforca. From here, we’ll hike up to Rifugio Quintino Sella, where we’ll spend the night.

The following day, we’ll cross the Ghiacciaio del Felik and follow the ridge to Castore’s summit at 4,226 metres. We’ll return along the same route, passing through the hut before descending to Staffal.

What it requires

You must already have used crampons and travelled roped together on a glacier. You’ll need good physical fitness, secure footwork and the ability to stay focused on exposed sections, including during the descent.

The final ridge is narrow and exposed: you must feel comfortable on this terrain and keep enough energy for the return.

How we’ll be guided

An IFMGA Mountain Guide will accompany us on both days, checking our equipment and managing the pace, rope team and route choice. We’ll adapt the programme to mountain conditions and the participants’ abilities.

Climbing with four participants per guide is only possible for teams that already work very well together and in excellent conditions, subject to the Mountain Guide’s assessment. Participants must have compatible experience, pace and technical skills.

1 participant: €1,200
2 participants: €690 per person
3 participants: €530 per person
4 participants: €450 per person, only for teams that already work very well together and in excellent conditions, subject to the Mountain Guide’s assessment.

Travelling solo and want to join a group? Click here.

The price includes

  • An IFMGA Mountain Guide for 2 days.
  • Half board at Rifugio Quintino Sella for you and your guide.
  • Lift ticket to Colle Bettaforca.
  • Technical equipment: climbing harness and crampons.

The price does not include

Personal accident insurance, meals not specified and anything not listed under “The price includes”.

 

Day 1 — Ascent to Rifugio Quintino Sella

We’ll meet our IFMGA Mountain Guide in Staffal, Gressoney, by 1 pm. After checking our equipment, we’ll take the lifts to Colle Bettaforca.

From here, we’ll begin our ascent to Rifugio Quintino Sella. We’ll follow a trail over rocky terrain before climbing a final ridge section equipped with fixed aids, requiring care and secure footwork.

We’ll reach the hut in the afternoon and prepare our equipment for the following day’s climb.

Dinner and overnight stay at Rifugio Quintino Sella, 3,585 metres.

Walking time: approximately 3 hours 30 minutes.

Day 2 — Ascent of Castore and return to Staffal

We’ll set off at dawn and cross the Ghiacciaio del Felik roped together. The route becomes progressively steeper as we approach Colle del Felik, where we’ll continue towards the final ridge.

We’ll climb this section using crampons and an ice axe, moving with precise footwork and a steady pace. The narrow, exposed ridge leads to Castore’s summit at 4,226 metres.

We’ll descend along the same route to Rifugio Quintino Sella, then continue to Colle Bettaforca. We’ll take the lifts back to Staffal in the afternoon.

Ascent: approximately 640 metres from the hut to the summit.
Climbing time: approximately 3 hours 30 minutes from the hut, depending on conditions and the pace of the rope team.

  • mountaineering clothing suitable for high altitude and changing conditions
  • mountaineering boots
  • a 30–35 litre backpack
  • sunglasses with category 3 or 4 protection
  • warm gloves
  • a headlamp
  • SPF 50+ sunscreen
  • protective lip balm
  • a sleeping bag liner for the hut

Crampons, a climbing harness and an ice axe are provided by us. If you already have your own equipment, we recommend bringing it: you’ll be using gear you know and are comfortable moving with.

After booking, we’ll send you a complete, detailed equipment list covering clothing, technical gear and accessories to bring. This will help you pack for the itinerary and the expected conditions. In the meantime, you can read our guide to mountaineering equipment for Monte Rosa.

Mountaineering, ski touring, off-piste skiing and trekking take place in a natural, uncontrolled environment.
Weather conditions, snow, ice, terrain, visibility, altitude and physical fatigue can change rapidly and directly affect the course of the activity. For this reason, there is always an inherent level of objective risk, which cannot be eliminated but only managed.

All our activities are led by IFMGA Mountain Guides and Certified Hiking Guides (AMM).
The guide continuously assesses environmental conditions and the physical and mental state of participants, sets an appropriate pace, manages progression and ensures the correct use of equipment. If conditions require it, the guide may modify the itinerary or interrupt the activity, always in the interest of individual and group safety.

Participants are required to be in good physical and mental condition, adequately prepared for the level of the activity, and to follow the guide’s instructions at all times.

Group activities

During group outings, the pace is set according to the slowest participant. In case of fatigue or discomfort, the guide may decide to adjust the programme or return early. In the mountains, the group ascends and returns together.

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FAQ #1 – What experience do I need to climb Castore?

Previous experience using crampons and travelling roped together on a glacier is required. You must have secure footwork and feel comfortable on exposed terrain: the final ridge is narrow and exposed.

FAQ #2 – How fit do I need to be?

You must be able to walk for several hours on two consecutive days. The second day includes the summit climb and the descent to the lifts, so you need to save enough energy and concentration for the descent.

FAQ #3 – Can four of us climb with one guide?

Only if you are a team that already works very well together and conditions are excellent. The IFMGA Mountain Guide will assess your experience, fitness and compatibility of pace before confirming this option.

FAQ #4 – Do I need to own all the technical equipment?

Crampons, a climbing harness and an ice axe are provided by us. If you already have your own equipment, we recommend bringing it. After booking, you’ll receive the complete list of equipment required.

FAQ #5 – Do I need a sleeping bag for the hut?

You don’t need a regular sleeping bag. You must bring a sleeping bag liner for your overnight stay at Rifugio Quintino Sella.

FAQ #6 – What happens if conditions change or I feel unwell?

Tell your guide immediately if you feel unwell or excessively tired. The IFMGA Mountain Guide will assess whether to change the route or stop the climb. Weather, glacier or ridge conditions may also require changes to the programme.

FAQ #7 – Will I receive a refund if we don’t reach the summit?

No. Reaching the summit is not guaranteed. If mountain conditions or the participants’ condition require the climb to be changed or stopped, the IFMGA Mountain Guide’s guiding service is still considered to have been provided.

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Climb to Castor Peak

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Insurance

Before departure, check that your insurance policy specifically covers mountaineering, glacier travel, altitude, trip cancellation, repatriation, and personal liability. For more information, read our complete guide to mountain insurance.

WINTER

Level 1 – Explore
First freeride experiences. Controlled turns and a relaxed pace on accessible terrain.

Level 2 – Advanced
Confident skiing on ungroomed snow and able to maintain a good pace throughout the day.

Level 3 – Technical
Regular freeride experience, including on steeper terrain and in more exposed situations.


SUMMER

Level 1 – First experience
You should be comfortable with normal mountain hiking. No previous mountaineering or glacier experience is required.

Level 2 – Basic experience
You should already have completed hikes of several hours on mountain trails. Previous glacier experience or use of crampons is not required, but you should be ready to use them for the first time.

Level 3 – Mountaineering experience
Previous experience using crampons and travelling roped together on a glacier is required. The route may include short exposed sections.

Level 4 – Advanced experience
Solid experience using crampons and travelling roped together is required. The route may include exposed ridges, steep slopes and mixed terrain.

Level 5 – Experienced mountaineer
Strong experience on technical high-mountain routes is required. The route may include very exposed sections, climbing on rock, ice or mixed terrain, and may require knowledge of the main rope techniques.

The level indicates the technical experience required, not the physical effort.
The actual difficulty may vary depending on mountain conditions and the route.