The Nose of Lyskamm

Level: Enthusiasts
Start date: 1 June
End date: 15 September
Participants: Max 3

My goal

The Nose of Lyskamm is an high mountain adventure offering an unparalleled alpine experience. Combining breathtaking landscapes with thrilling challenges that cater to both intermediate climbers and high-altitude enthusiasts.
As part of our adventure, we’ll traverse the skyline of Monte Rosa. But we follow also the exhilarating path of the Trofeo Mezzalama ski mountaineering competition. This unforgettable journey also includes a mesmerizing traverse of the Nose of Lyskamm. You’ll conquer 4000 meters of pure joy and delve into the heart of the Lyskamm group. Along the way, you are treated to exclusive views of the Felik and Lys glaciers, adding to the awe-inspiring nature of this expedition. Get ready to embark on an adventure like no other!
Climbing the Lyskamm nose, you can expect a high mountain adventure filled with excitement, stunning scenery, and unforgettable experiences in the heart of the Alps.
Monterosa Webcam 

1 alpinist € 1150,00
2 alpinists € 660,00 / person
3 alpinists € 500,00 / person

The price includes
IFMGA mountain guide for 2 days, half board at Quintino Sella refuge, round-trip cable car, technical equipment if needed (harness, crampons, ice axe)

Day 1

Gather with the guide at the Staffal lifts ticket office in Gressoney at 2:30 PM for a rendezvous. Perform equipment checks and distribute necessary technical gear. Board the cable car to the Bettaforca Pass (2700 m), initiating a roughly 3-hour and 30-minute ascent to Rifugio Quintino Sella (3585 m) via a pleasant and accessible via ferrata. Conclude the day with dinner and an overnight stay at the refuge

Day 2

With the break of dawn, we dive headfirst into this epic challenge: conquering the Nose of Lyskamm. A thrilling 5-hour journey that culminates triumphantly at Rifugio Città di Mantova (3498 m). After a quick breather, our descent to Punta Indren becomes the homestretch. There, we entrust ourselves to the lifts for a smooth ride back to Staffal.

– 5 layers of clothing for the upper body (thermal shirt, light fleece, heavy fleece, down jacket, anorak.)
– two set of gloves (soft and ski ones)
– sunglasses (with 3 or 4 protection)
– heavy trousers (windproof)
– underpants
– gaiters
– rigid, ankle height, waterproof boots.
– two pair of ski socks
– headlamp
– hat that covers your ears
– bag sheet for the hut
– sun screen & lip balm
– poles
– ice axe (if are used to it)
– helmet is recommended but not compulsory
– 1lt water bottle/thermos
– harness & crampons

Please note, a sleeping bag liner is mandatory in all mountain huts.
We suggest a lightweight, reusable sleeping bag liner. Let’s protect the mountains from waste
Our favorite sleeping bag liner

Difficulty: PD – glacier crossing, ascent of a steep slope (max 40°) of mixed terrain, variable depending on conditions.
Duration of the traverse from Rifugio Quintino Sella: approximately 5 hours
Elevation gain from Rifugio Quintino Sella: approximately 700 m

Engaging in mountaineering is inherently perilous and carries the potential for severe injury or fatality. All Monte Rosa guides hold UIAGM certification and are dedicated to taking every possible measure to mitigate risks. It’s crucial to acknowledge that while efforts are made to minimize dangers, complete elimination of risk is unattainable and must be acknowledged before participating in any of our groups.

Monte Rosa guides are committed to assisting you in achieving your objectives and ensuring a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Nevertheless, it is imperative that you place trust in their unquestionable judgment while navigating the mountains and be prepared to respect and accept any decisions they make. Adequate preparation and maintaining a minimum standard of physical fitness are essential to uphold a sufficient safety margin during mountaineering ascents.

In the event that, due to your physical condition or any other reason, your guide determines that you are not prepared for the ascent to Monte Rosa, suitable alternatives will be offered.

FAQ #1 – Will I suffer from altitude sickness?
High altitude can cause altitude sickness, with symptoms such as headaches, nausea, fatigue, and difficulty concentrating. These symptoms can vary from person to person. Some people adapt more easily to altitude than others. If possible, gradual acclimatization by spending time at higher altitudes before reaching 4000 meters can help reduce altitude sickness symptoms. Good physical fitness can also aid adaptation to altitude.
FAQ #2 – Are there any medications that can help with altitude sickness?
Altitude sickness is highly subjective, and there is no one-size-fits-all solution. It is advisable to bring only the headache and nausea medications that you are already familiar with and have used before. Nevertheless, we recommend consulting your primary healthcare provider for personalized advice
FAQ #3 – What happens if I feel unwell during the ascent?
If you feel unwell in the refuge, we will organize an early descent. If you feel unwell along the route, we will turn back. In the case of severe discomfort, the accompanying guide will alert rescue services, and you will be evacuated by helicopter.
FAQ #4 – Can I join a group if I’m alone?
No, we do not organize group excursions for this type of climb. The team must have good preparation and confidence. Difficulty: PD – glacier crossing, ascent of a steep slope (max 40°) of mixed terrain, variable depending on conditions.
FAQ #5 – Do I need to bring a sleeping bag?
No, Monterosa’s refuges provide pillows, duvets, or blankets! However, the use of a sleeping bag liner is mandatory, and you can purchase it for a minimal cost at specialized stores. Click here for more information (affiliate link)
FAQ #6 – Can I rent high mountain clothing and equipment?
You can rent equipment (boots, poles, ice axe) in Alagna, Gressoney and Champoluc. However, it will not be possible to rent clothing.
FAQ #7 – If I do not reach the summit, will I be refunded?
No, there will be no refunds as you will have already used the refuge, guide, and lifts.
FAQ #8 -What is the required fitness level for the excursion?
To successfully complete this experience, you need good physical endurance and training that allows you to sustain at least 4/5 hours of uphill walking plus the same amount in descent.

Populate the form and secure your spot now!

The Nose of Lyskamm