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Activities

The Nose of Lyskamm

Level: 4
Season: Summer
Duration: 2 days
Participants: Max 3

My goal

The Naso del Lyskamm Traverse is a two-day mountaineering route for climbers who already have alpine experience and want to move beyond the easier glacier routes.

From Rifugio Quintino Sella, the route crosses the glacier before tackling a slope of up to around 40°, on snow or mixed terrain depending on conditions. It then continues between the Felik and Lys glaciers, beneath the Eastern and Western Lyskamm, in the heart of Monte Rosa.

This is a route where elevation gain is only part of the challenge. You need good crampon technique, confidence moving as part of a rope team, sustained concentration and the ability to adapt to terrain that can change significantly with the conditions.

Your IFMGA Mountain Guide continuously assesses glacier and snow conditions, weather and the level of the rope team, adapting the pace and route when necessary.

The goal is to traverse the Naso del Lyskamm efficiently and with enough margin, on a more mountaineering-focused route where technique, conditions and adaptability matter as much as the elevation gain.

 Read here for our training tips.

1 alpinist: € 1200,00
2 alpinists: € 670,00 / person
3 alpinists: € 510,00 / person

The price includes: IFMGA mountain guide for 2 days, half board at Quintino Sella refuge, half board of the guide, round-trip cable car to Colle Bettaforca, technical equipment if needed (harness, crampons, ice axe).

Not included in the price: accident insurance (recommended), meals not specified for you and the guide, anything not specified under “The price includes”.

Day 1
Meet the guide at the Staffal lift ticket office in Gressoney at 2:30 PM. Equipment check and distribution of technical materials. We will take the cable car to the Colle della Bettaforca (2700 m) and then begin the ascent, which will take about 3 hours and 30 minutes to reach the Quintino Sella Refuge (3585 m). Dinner and overnight stay.

Day 2
At dawn, we will set off for the crossing of the Naso del Lyskamm, which will take approximately 5 to 6 hours and will conclude at the Rifugio Città di Mantova (3498 m). After a short break, we will descend to Punta Indren to take the lifts back to Staffal. Arrival in Gressoney is expected around 4:30 PM.

For the Naso del Lyskamm traverse, you will need:

  • mountaineering clothing suitable for high altitude
  • mountaineering boots
  • 30–35 litre backpack
  • category 3 or 4 sunglasses
  • warm gloves
  • headlamp
  • SPF 50+ sunscreen
  • sleeping bag liner for the hut

Crampons, harness and helmet are provided by us when required for the programme. If you have your own ice axe, bring it with you.

After booking, we will send you the complete equipment list. For a route such as the Naso del Lyskamm, the exact equipment may vary depending on glacier, snow and mountain conditions. In the meantime, you can read our mountaineering equipment guide for Monte Rosa.

 

Mountaineering, ski touring, off-piste skiing and trekking take place in a natural, uncontrolled environment.
Weather conditions, snow, ice, terrain, visibility, altitude and physical fatigue can change rapidly and directly affect the course of the activity. For this reason, there is always an inherent level of objective risk, which cannot be eliminated but only managed.

All our activities are led by IFMGA Mountain Guides and Certified Hiking Guides (AMM).
The guide continuously assesses environmental conditions and the physical and mental state of participants, sets an appropriate pace, manages progression and ensures the correct use of equipment. If conditions require it, the guide may modify the itinerary or interrupt the activity, always in the interest of individual and group safety.

Participants are required to be in good physical and mental condition, adequately prepared for the level of the activity, and to follow the guide’s instructions at all times.

Group activities

During group outings, the pace is set according to the slowest participant. In case of fatigue or discomfort, the guide may decide to adjust the programme or return early. In the mountains, the group ascends and returns together.

? Learn more here

FAQ #1 – Is the Naso del Lyskamm traverse suitable as a first 4,000-metre climb?

No. This route requires previous mountaineering experience and confidence using crampons and travelling roped together on a glacier. The slope reaches around 40° and conditions can make the terrain more technical, so you need to be comfortable moving efficiently in high-mountain terrain.

FAQ #2 – What technical experience do I need for the Naso del Lyskamm?

You should already be comfortable using crampons and an ice axe and travelling roped together on a glacier. Depending on conditions, the route may involve steep snow or mixed terrain, so a solid mountaineering background is required.

FAQ #3 – Do I need to bring a sleeping bag?

No. You do not need a traditional sleeping bag, but a sleeping bag liner is compulsory in the hut. We recommend bringing a lightweight, reusable one.

FAQ #4 – Can I rent the equipment I need?

Crampons, harness and helmet are provided by Monterosa Booking. Your clothing and mountaineering boots must be suitable for high altitude. After booking, we will send you the complete equipment list and can help you work out what you may need to rent.

FAQ #5 – Will I get a refund if we cannot complete the traverse?

No. Completing the traverse cannot be guaranteed. Weather, snow, glacier conditions or the condition of individual participants may make it necessary to change or stop the route. The guiding service is still considered provided if the planned traverse cannot be completed.

FAQ #6 – How fit do I need to be for the Naso del Lyskamm traverse?

You need good physical fitness and the ability to move for several hours at altitude. Beyond endurance, you need to stay focused, move confidently and maintain a steady pace on glaciated and steeper terrain.

Populate the form and secure your spot now!
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The Nose of Lyskamm

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Insurance

Before departure, check that your insurance policy specifically covers mountaineering, glacier travel, altitude, trip cancellation, repatriation, and personal liability. For more information, read our complete guide to mountain insurance.

WINTER

Level 1 – Explore
First freeride experiences. Controlled turns and a relaxed pace on accessible terrain.

Level 2 – Advanced
Confident skiing on ungroomed snow and able to maintain a good pace throughout the day.

Level 3 – Technical
Regular freeride experience, including on steeper terrain and in more exposed situations.


SUMMER

Level 1 – First experience
You should be comfortable with normal mountain hiking. No previous mountaineering or glacier experience is required.

Level 2 – Basic experience
You should already have completed hikes of several hours on mountain trails. Previous glacier experience or use of crampons is not required, but you should be ready to use them for the first time.

Level 3 – Mountaineering experience
Previous experience using crampons and travelling roped together on a glacier is required. The route may include short exposed sections.

Level 4 – Advanced experience
Solid experience using crampons and travelling roped together is required. The route may include exposed ridges, steep slopes and mixed terrain.

Level 5 – Experienced mountaineer
Strong experience on technical high-mountain routes is required. The route may include very exposed sections, climbing on rock, ice or mixed terrain, and may require knowledge of the main rope techniques.

The level indicates the technical experience required, not the physical effort.
The actual difficulty may vary depending on mountain conditions and the route.