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Activities

Pollux Castor Traverse

Level: 4
Season: Summer
Duration: 2 days
Participants: Max 3

My goal

Two days on Monte Rosa linking two 4,000-metre peaks, across glaciers, rocky sections and exposed ridges.

We’ll link Polluce and Castore in a single traverse, combining glacier travel, rocky sections and exposed ridges. This route is for those with previous mountaineering experience who want to bring different skills together during a long day in the high mountains.

Where we’ll go

We’ll start in Val d’Ayas and make our way to Rifugio Guide d’Ayas al Lambronecca, where we’ll spend the night. The following day, we’ll climb Polluce, including a rocky section equipped with chains, before continuing towards Castore.

From the summit of Castore, we’ll descend along the ridge towards Colle del Felik and Rifugio Quintino Sella. We’ll continue to Bettaforca and return to Frachey, completing the traverse.

What it requires

You need experience on glaciers, confidence walking in crampons and familiarity with moving as part of a roped team. You’ll need sure footing on rocky terrain, confidence with exposure and the fitness for a long day involving two climbs above 4,000 metres and a demanding descent.

You must be able to stay focused and move precisely even when tired. This programme is not suitable as a first mountaineering experience.

How we’ll be guided

We’ll be accompanied by an IFMGA Mountain Guide, who will check our equipment, manage the roped team and choose the route and pace according to conditions and how we’re progressing.

Before departure, we’ll assess your experience and fitness together. During the traverse, the guide may change the route or turn back depending on the weather, terrain conditions and the condition of the participants.

1 alpinist: € 1460,00
2 alpinists: € 800,00 / person
3 alpinists: € 590,00 / person

The price includes

  • An IFMGA Mountain Guide for the 2-day traverse.
  • Off-road taxi from Saint-Jacques to Piani di Verra Superiore.
  • Half board at Rifugio Guide d’Ayas al Lambronecca.
  • Technical equipment: ice axe, crampons, climbing harness and helmet.
  • Off-road taxi from Colle Bettaforca to Frachey.

The price does not include

Personal accident insurance (recommended), meals not specified for you and the guide, and anything not listed under “The price includes”.

Day 1 — Ascent to Rifugio Guide d’Ayas al Lambronecca

We’ll meet at 2:00 pm at the Frachey lift station. After checking our equipment, we’ll take an off-road taxi to Piani di Verra Superiore.

From here, we’ll continue on foot to Rifugio Guide d’Ayas al Lambronecca, at the edge of the Ghiacciaio di Verra. In the afternoon, we’ll prepare our equipment and review the techniques we’ll use the following day with our guide.

Dinner and overnight stay at the hut.

Day 2 — Polluce, Castore and return to Frachey

We’ll set off at dawn and ascend the Ghiacciaio di Verra as a roped team towards the south ridge of Polluce. We’ll cross sections of snow, rock and mixed terrain, depending on conditions, and climb the section equipped with chains before reaching the summit.

We’ll descend from Polluce and continue towards Castore. We’ll climb the glacier to the final ridge and follow it to the summit.

The traverse will continue down the opposite side: we’ll descend along the ridge towards Colle del Felik and Rifugio Quintino Sella, then continue to Colle Bettaforca. From here, we’ll return to Frachey by off-road taxi.

This will be the longest and most demanding day of the programme. Throughout the route, our IFMGA Mountain Guide will assess conditions, timing and how the roped team is progressing, adapting the itinerary whenever necessary.

For the Polluce–Castore traverse, you’ll need:

  • mountaineering clothing suitable for high altitude and changing conditions
  • mountaineering boots
  • a 30–35 litre backpack
  • category 3 or 4 sunglasses
  • warm gloves
  • a headlamp
  • SPF 50+ sunscreen
  • protective lip balm
  • a sleeping bag liner for the hut

Crampons, a climbing harness and a helmet are provided by us. If you have your own equipment, bring it: using gear you’re familiar with is preferable. If you have your own ice axe, bring that too.

After booking, we’ll send you a complete, detailed equipment list, with guidance on clothing, technical gear and accessories to bring. This will help you pack for the programme and the expected conditions on the traverse. In the meantime, you can read our mountaineering equipment guide for Monte Rosa.

Mountaineering, ski touring, off-piste skiing and trekking take place in a natural, uncontrolled environment.
Weather conditions, snow, ice, terrain, visibility, altitude and physical fatigue can change rapidly and directly affect the course of the activity. For this reason, there is always an inherent level of objective risk, which cannot be eliminated but only managed.

All our activities are led by IFMGA Mountain Guides and Certified Hiking Guides (AMM).
The guide continuously assesses environmental conditions and the physical and mental state of participants, sets an appropriate pace, manages progression and ensures the correct use of equipment. If conditions require it, the guide may modify the itinerary or interrupt the activity, always in the interest of individual and group safety.

Participants are required to be in good physical and mental condition, adequately prepared for the level of the activity, and to follow the guide’s instructions at all times.

Group activities

During group outings, the pace is set according to the slowest participant. In case of fatigue or discomfort, the guide may decide to adjust the programme or return early. In the mountains, the group ascends and returns together.

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FAQ #1 – Is the Polluce–Castore traverse suitable for my first 4,000-metre peak?

No. You need previous experience using crampons and moving as part of a roped team on glaciers, as well as sure footing on rocky sections and exposed ridges.

FAQ #2 – How fit do I need to be?

You need to be accustomed to long days in the mountains, with sustained ascents and descents. The second day includes both summits and the return journey: you must be able to maintain energy, precision and concentration as you become tired.

FAQ #3 – How do the climbs of Polluce and Castore differ?

On Polluce, we’ll climb mixed terrain and rocky sections, including a section equipped with chains. On Castore, we’ll ascend glacier terrain and follow an exposed snow ridge. Snow and ice conditions can affect the difficulty of both climbs.

FAQ #4 – Where will we stay, and do I need a sleeping bag?

We’ll stay at Rifugio Guide d’Ayas al Lambronecca with half board. You don’t need a full sleeping bag, but you must bring a sleeping bag liner.

FAQ #5 – What equipment is provided?

We provide an ice axe, crampons, climbing harness and helmet. If you have your own equipment, bring it: the guide will check that it is suitable. Bring your own ice axe too, if you have one. After booking, you’ll receive a complete equipment list.

FAQ #6 – Can I take part on my own?

Yes. This is a private activity that you can arrange on your own with the guide or with one or two companions. There is a maximum of 3 participants per IFMGA Mountain Guide.

FAQ #7 – Will I receive a refund if we don’t reach both summits?

No. Reaching the summits and completing the traverse are not guaranteed. The guide may change the route or turn back because of the weather, glacier and ridge conditions, or the condition of the participants. The IFMGA Mountain Guide’s service will still be considered delivered.

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Pollux Castor Traverse

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Insurance

Before departure, check that your insurance policy specifically covers mountaineering, glacier travel, altitude, trip cancellation, repatriation, and personal liability. For more information, read our complete guide to mountain insurance.

WINTER

Level 1 – Explore
First freeride experiences. Controlled turns and a relaxed pace on accessible terrain.

Level 2 – Advanced
Confident skiing on ungroomed snow and able to maintain a good pace throughout the day.

Level 3 – Technical
Regular freeride experience, including on steeper terrain and in more exposed situations.


SUMMER

Level 1 – First experience
You should be comfortable with normal mountain hiking. No previous mountaineering or glacier experience is required.

Level 2 – Basic experience
You should already have completed hikes of several hours on mountain trails. Previous glacier experience or use of crampons is not required, but you should be ready to use them for the first time.

Level 3 – Mountaineering experience
Previous experience using crampons and travelling roped together on a glacier is required. The route may include short exposed sections.

Level 4 – Advanced experience
Solid experience using crampons and travelling roped together is required. The route may include exposed ridges, steep slopes and mixed terrain.

Level 5 – Experienced mountaineer
Strong experience on technical high-mountain routes is required. The route may include very exposed sections, climbing on rock, ice or mixed terrain, and may require knowledge of the main rope techniques.

The level indicates the technical experience required, not the physical effort.
The actual difficulty may vary depending on mountain conditions and the route.