The Pollux Castor traverse is a fascinating circular route that connects two of the most beautiful 4000-meter peaks of Monte Rosa. It’s an extraordinary, challenging, and varied experience. Choosing this traverse means tackling all types of high-mountain terrain, immersed in some of the most stunning views of Monte Rosa. A central stop on the Spaghetti Tour, it’s a high-altitude mountain adventure that introduces you to the world of advanced mountaineering. The base camp is the charming Rifugio delle Guide di Ayas, perched beneath the Breithorn, which can be reached from Champoluc in just over 3 hours.
Pollux Castor traverse stats:
1 alpinist: € 1300,00
2 alpinists: € 700,00 / person
3 alpinists: € 500,00 / person
The price includes: off-road taxi from Saint Jaques to the upper Verra plains, half-board accommodation at the Lambronecca refuge, guidance for the 2-day traverse by a UIAGM mountain guide, guide’s expenses, technical equipment, off-road taxi from Colle Bettaforca to Frachey.
Day 1: Meet the mountain guide at 2:00 PM at the Frachey cable cars, where we will check gear and distribute technical equipment. We will take a jeep to the Upper Verra Plains, where the trail to the Lambronecca Refuge begins. The refuge is perched at the edge of the great Verra glacier, offering a spectacular view of the Breithorn range. Dinner and overnight stay.
Day 2: At dawn, we will ascend the Great Verra Glacier to the base of Pollux’s southern ridge. Depending on the conditions, we will climb a steep snow slope or a mixed ridge that leads us to a chimney equipped with chains. After climbing the chimney, we will reach the fore-summit, where the statue of the Madonna and Child is located. After a gear adjustment, we will tackle the spectacular snowy ridge that will take us to the summit of Pollux at 4,089 meters (approximately 2.5 to 3 hours from the refuge).
After descending along the same route, we will continue towards the majestic west face of Castor. The ascent, zigzagging between crevasses, culminates in a final 45° slope that will bring us to the final ridge, from which there is a breathtaking view of the Swiss side of Monte Rosa. We will reach the summit of Castor at 4,225 meters in about 2.5 hours from the Verra Glacier.
The descent towards Colle Felik will test us on a horizontal ridge, giving us the opportunity to better understand what the Lyskamm traverse entails, always visible in front of us, and perhaps consider it as a future project.
From Colle Felik, we will descend a 40° slope that will lead us to the tranquil Felik Glacier and the Quintino Sella Refuge. To return to Frachey, we will follow the equipped ridge of Ometto and then the trail towards Colle della Bettaforca, from where we will descend to the valley by off-road vehicle.
– 5 layers of clothing for the upper body (thermal shirt, light fleece, heavy fleece, down jacket, anorak.)
– two set of gloves (soft and ski ones)
– sunglasses (with 3 or 4 protection)
– heavy trousers (windproof)
– underpants
– gaiters
– rigid, ankle height, waterproof boots.
– two pair of ski socks
– headlamp
– hat that covers your ears
– bag sheet for the hut
– sun screen & lip balm
– poles
– ice axe
– helmet
– 1lt water bottle/thermos
– harness & crampons
Please note, a sleeping bag liner is mandatory in all mountain huts.
We suggest a lightweight, reusable sleeping bag liner. Let’s protect the mountains from waste
Our favorite sleeping bag liner
Monte Rosa guides are committed to assisting you in achieving your objectives and ensuring a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Nevertheless, it is imperative that you place trust in their unquestionable judgment while navigating the mountains and be prepared to respect and accept any decisions they make. Adequate preparation and maintaining a minimum standard of physical fitness are essential to uphold a sufficient safety margin during mountaineering ascents.
In the event that, due to your physical condition or any other reason, your guide determines that you are not prepared for the ascent to Monte Rosa, suitable alternatives will be offered.
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