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Activities
If you already have mountaineering experience, don’t choose the most popular route to reach Capanna Margherita.
There are paths that demand more — but give back even more: silence, technique, vast landscapes, and the genuine feeling of living the mountains.
This is where the true Monte Rosa climb experience begins. A deep and authentic way to connect with the high alpine world.
The ascent via the Lyskamm’s Nose is one of them. An iconic and demanding route, chosen by those who prefer a more technical and quieter approach, far from the well-trodden trails.
Every step is a dialogue with the glacier, an exercise in focus and respect. A direct encounter with the mountain in its purest form.
Taking this route to the Margherita means sharing our vision of mountaineering. Patience, awareness, and skill. It’s the most authentic and rewarding way to reach the highest mountain hut in Europe — and to bring home an experience that truly stays with you.
Want to spend a night at Capanna Regina Margherita?
Read our tips here to prepare wisely.
Want a glimpse of your next Monte Rosa climb experience?
? Check the live webcams and get inspired by the stunning views of the massif.
910€ per person
The price includes: IFMGA mountain guide for three days, half-board at Rifugio Quintino Sella, half board at Capanna Margherita, cable car to Bettaforca, cable car back from Indren. Technical equipment if needed (harness, crampons).
Not included in the price: accident insurance (recommended), meals not specified for yourself and the guide, everything not listed under “the price includes”.
Day 1 – Approach to the Quintino Sella Hut
Meeting point at 12:00 PM at the Staffal lift ticket office, where you’ll meet your mountain guide and receive the technical equipment.
From there, we’ll take the lifts up to Bettaforca and begin our hike towards the Quintino Sella Hut, following a rocky ridge and a short section of via ferrata.
We’ll move at an easy pace, taking time to acclimatise and enjoy the scenery, arriving at the hut around 4:00 PM.<br />Dinner and overnight stay at the hut.
Ascent: approx. 900 m
Hiking time: 3–4 hours
Day 2 – Lyskamm’s Nose and Capanna Margherita
At dawn, the real adventure begins. Roped together, we’ll make o
ur way up towards the Lyskamm’s Nose – a beautiful, demanding route that rewards every step with incredible views.
By mid-morning we’ll reach the top and continue towards Colle del Lys before heading up to Capanna Margherita, the highest mountain hut in Europe.
/>A light lunch and time to rest will follow, surrounded by silence, ice and sky. As the evening arrives, we’ll witness one of the most unforgettable sunsets over the Alps.
Dinner and overnight stay at Capanna Margherita.
Ascent: approx. 1200 m
Hiking time: 6–7 hours
Day 3 – Descent through the Cristo delle Vette and Pyramid Vincent
After breakfast with one of the most stunning views in the Alps, we’ll start our descent, passing by the Cristo delle Vette and the Pyramid Vincent – two impressive 4000-metre peaks.
We’ll reach Indren, where we’ll take the lifts down to Passo dei Salati and end our journey in either Alagna or Gressoney.
Three days filled with effort, balance, and emotion — an experience that captures the very essence of our mountains.
Descent: approx. 1500 m
Hiking time: 5–6 hours
✨ A true mountaineering journey for experienced climbers who want to go beyond the classic routes. Quiet, technical, and deeply rewarding — the way we live the mountains every day.
Recommended Clothing
Technical Equipment
Important Accessories
If you have doubts about the necessary equipment, click here! You will find a detailed guide and links to products recommended by the Monte Rosa Guides.
IMPORTANT: A sleeping bag liner is mandatory in all mountain huts. We recommend bringing a lightweight, reusable liner to help reduce waste in the mountains.
We use this one.
Mountaineering, ski touring, off-piste skiing and trekking take place in a natural, uncontrolled environment.
Weather conditions, snow, ice, terrain, visibility, altitude and physical fatigue can change rapidly and directly affect the course of the activity. For this reason, there is always an inherent level of objective risk, which cannot be eliminated but only managed.
All our activities are led by IFMGA Mountain Guides and Certified Hiking Guides (AMM).
The guide continuously assesses environmental conditions and the physical and mental state of participants, sets an appropriate pace, manages progression and ensures the correct use of equipment. If conditions require it, the guide may modify the itinerary or interrupt the activity, always in the interest of individual and group safety.
Participants are required to be in good physical and mental condition, adequately prepared for the level of the activity, and to follow the guide’s instructions at all times.
Group activities
During group outings, the pace is set according to the slowest participant. In case of fatigue or discomfort, the guide may decide to adjust the programme or return early. In the mountains, the group ascends and returns together.
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