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Activities

Lyskamm traverse

Level: Expert
Season: Summer
Duration: 2 days
Participants: 1

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If you’re looking for a mountaineering challenge, the Lyskamm traverse is an extraordinary experience. The two towering peaks, rising to 4533 and 4479 meters, dominate the Monte Rosa landscape and offer a demanding ascent. Confronting the ridge of complex rocks and terrain requires not only physical strength and training but also great concentration and technical skill.

The Lyskamm experience is completely immersive: the cold air, the sun sparkling on the ice, and the silence of high altitudes make each step unique. It’s not just about reaching a summit, but about living an extraordinary journey in a breathtaking natural environment, reserved for experienced climbers. A true meeting of technique and unspoiled nature.

Lyskamm Traverse in pills:

Difficulty: D, mixed ascent at altitude with rock sections up to grade IV. Requires good physical fitness and the ability to move with crampons on ice and rock.
Elevation Gain: 950 m
Ascent Time: 5/6 hours
Elevation Loss: 1800 m
Descent Time: 5/6 hours

Want to prepare for the Lyskamm traverse? Test yourself on the Soldier’s Ridge.

See the Lyskamm from Capanna Margherita.

1 alpinist € 1500,00

The price includes: accompaniment by a IFMGA mountain guide for the two days of the ascent, technical equipment, overnight stay at Rifugio Quintino Sella (3585 m) or Capanna Gnifetti CAI (3647 m) with half board, lift ticket for the Staffal-Bettaforca or Staffal-Punta Indren route, valid for multiple days round trip.

Not included in the price: accident insurance (recommended), meals not specified for yourself and the guide, anything not mentioned in “the price includes” section.

Day 1

Meet with the guide and ascent to the chosen hut.

Day 2

Departure at dawn for the epic traverse of the giants of the Lyskamm bastion. The route will take approximately 7 hours.

 

 

  • Headlamp and power bank
  • 1-liter thermos
  • SPF 50+ sunscreen
  • Moisturizing lip balm
  • Energy snacks (nuts, bars, chocolate…)
  • Basic first aid kit (blister plasters, aspirin, personal medicines…)
  • Essential personal hygiene kit

If you have doubts about the necessary equipment, click here! You will find a detailed guide and links to products recommended by the Monte Rosa Guides.

IMPORTANT: A sleeping bag liner is mandatory in all mountain huts. We recommend bringing a lightweight, reusable liner to help reduce waste in the mountains.
We use this one.

Mountaineering, ski touring, off-piste skiing and trekking take place in a natural, uncontrolled environment.
Weather conditions, snow, ice, terrain, visibility, altitude and physical fatigue can change rapidly and directly affect the course of the activity. For this reason, there is always an inherent level of objective risk, which cannot be eliminated but only managed.

All our activities are led by IFMGA Mountain Guides and Certified Hiking Guides (AMM).
The guide continuously assesses environmental conditions and the physical and mental state of participants, sets an appropriate pace, manages progression and ensures the correct use of equipment. If conditions require it, the guide may modify the itinerary or interrupt the activity, always in the interest of individual and group safety.

Participants are required to be in good physical and mental condition, adequately prepared for the level of the activity, and to follow the guide’s instructions at all times.

Group activities

During group outings, the pace is set according to the slowest participant. In case of fatigue or discomfort, the guide may decide to adjust the programme or return early. In the mountains, the group ascends and returns together.

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FAQ #1 – Will I suffer from altitude sickness?
High altitude can cause altitude sickness, with symptoms such as headaches, nausea, fatigue, and difficulty concentrating. These symptoms can vary from person to person. Some people adapt more easily to altitude than others. If possible, gradual acclimatization by spending time at higher altitudes before reaching 4000 meters can help reduce altitude sickness symptoms. Good physical fitness can also aid adaptation to altitude.
FAQ #2 – Are there any medications that can help with altitude sickness?
Altitude sickness is highly subjective, and there is no one-size-fits-all solution. It is advisable to bring only the headache and nausea medications that you are already familiar with and have used before. Nevertheless, we recommend consulting your primary healthcare provider for personalized advice
FAQ #3 – What happens if I feel unwell during the ascent?
If you feel unwell in the refuge, we will organize an early descent. If you feel unwell along the route, we will turn back. In the case of severe discomfort, the accompanying guide will alert rescue services, and you will be evacuated by helicopter.
FAQ #4 – Can I join a group if I’m alone?
No, we do not organize group excursions for this type of climb. The team must have good preparation and confidence.
FAQ #5 – Do I need to bring a sleeping bag?
No, Monterosa’s refuges provide pillows, duvets, or blankets! However, the use of a sleeping bag liner is mandatory, and you can purchase it for a minimal cost at specialized stores. Click here for more information (affiliate link)
FAQ #6 – Can I rent high mountain clothing and equipment?
You can rent equipment (boots, poles, ice axe) in Alagna, Gressoney and Champoluc. However, it will not be possible to rent clothing.
FAQ #7 – If I do not reach the summit, will I be refunded?
No, there will be no refunds as you will have already used the refuge, guide, and lifts.
FAQ #8 – What is the required fitness level for the excursion?
To successfully complete this hike, mountaineering experience, excellent physical endurance, and adequate training are required. Traversing Lyskamm is intended for expert mountaineers. Before accepting the ascent, our guides will ask for your climbing resume and, if necessary, you will be asked to do a preliminary climb to verify your skills and preparation.

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Lyskamm traverse

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Insurance

If you want to go mountain climbing without worries, choose an international insurance policy like True Traveller or World Nomads: it covers mountain rescue, medical expenses, and repatriation. Also, remember to take out liability insurance to protect yourself against any accidental damage to others during your adventure.