Activities

Rey Ridge to Dufour Peak

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Level: Expert

Season: Summer

Duration: 2 days

Participants: Max 1

My goal

The Rey Ridge to Dufour Peak is one of the classic and challenging routes in the Monte Rosa group, named after Guido Rey, a prominent mountaineer and photographer from the early 1900s. The route leads to the highest summit of the massif and follows the pronounced SSW ridge, entirely at high altitude, between 4200 and 4600 meters. The ascent involves sections of both snow and rock, depending on seasonal conditions. The technical difficulties range between Grade III and IV on well-featured rock, with some steep passages, making it a thrilling and demanding climb.

Rey Ridge to Dufour Peak Summary

Grade: D-
Elevation gain (Day 1): 370 meters to Gnifetti Hut (1.5 hours)
Elevation gain (Day 2): 1300 meters (5-6 hours ascent, 4-5 hours descent)
Maximum altitude: Dufour Peak, 4633 m

Preparing for the Rey Ridge to Dufour Peak? Test yourself on the Cresta del Soldato.

Admire the Lyskamm from the Margherita Hut.

Price

1 alpinist: €1,500.00

The price includes: IFMGAcertified Monte Rosa mountain guide for two days of the ascent, technical equipment, overnight stay at the Gnifetti Hut, ski pass for Alagna/Gressoney – Punta Indren (valid for multiple round trips)

Not included in the price: accident insurance (recommended), meals not mentioned for both the client and the guide, anything not specified under “the price includes.”

Program

Day 1
Meet the guide at the Passo dei Salati and ascend to the Gnifetti Hut.

Day 2
Depart at dawn to ascend Dufour Peak via the Rey Ridge. The route will take approximately 6-7 hours.

Equipment required

Recommended Clothing

2 Breathable shirts (short sleeves also fine)
1 Long-sleeve thermal shirt
1 Fleece or heavy sweatshirt
1 Down jacket
1 Waterproof/windproof jacket
2 pairs of thermal or ski socks
1 Leggings
1 Windproof mountaineering pants
Warm gloves + lightweight fingered gloves
1 Warm hat (covering the ears)
1 Neck warmer (buff)
Sunglasses with category 3 or 4 protection

Technical Equipment

30/35 L backpack
Backpack cover
12-point crampons
Ice axe with steel blade
Helmet
Harness
Locking carabiner
Telescopic poles

A few days before departure, the guide will contact you to specify the required gear based on weather and forecasted temperatures.

Important Accessories

Headlamp and power bank
1-liter thermos
SPF 50+ sunscreen
Moisturizing lip balm
Energy snacks (nuts, bars, chocolate…)
Basic first aid kit (blister plasters, aspirin, personal medicines…)
Essential personal hygiene kit

If you have doubts about the necessary equipment, click here! You will find a detailed guide and links to products recommended by the Monte Rosa Guides.

IMPORTANT: A sleeping bag liner is mandatory in all mountain huts. We recommend bringing a lightweight, reusable liner to help reduce waste in the mountains.
We use this one.

Please, pay attention here

Mountaineering, ski touring, off-piste skiing and trekking take place in a natural, uncontrolled environment.
Weather conditions, snow, ice, terrain, visibility, altitude and physical fatigue can change rapidly and directly affect the course of the activity. For this reason, there is always an inherent level of objective risk, which cannot be eliminated but only managed.

All our activities are led by IFMGA Mountain Guides and Certified Hiking Guides (AMM).
The guide continuously assesses environmental conditions and the physical and mental state of participants, sets an appropriate pace, manages progression and ensures the correct use of equipment. If conditions require it, the guide may modify the itinerary or interrupt the activity, always in the interest of individual and group safety.

Participants are required to be in good physical and mental condition, adequately prepared for the level of the activity, and to follow the guide’s instructions at all times.

Group activities

During group outings, the pace is set according to the slowest participant. In case of fatigue or discomfort, the guide may decide to adjust the programme or return early. In the mountains, the group ascends and returns together.

? Learn more here

F.A.Q.

FAQ #1 – Will I suffer from altitude sickness?

High altitude can cause altitude sickness, with symptoms such as headaches, nausea, fatigue, and difficulty concentrating. These symptoms can vary from person to person. Gradual acclimatization helps reduce the risk and intensity of symptoms. Being in good physical shape and well-trained makes the experience less strenuous.

FAQ #2 – Are there any medications that can help with altitude sickness?

Altitude sickness is highly subjective, and there is no one-size-fits-all solution. It is advisable to bring only the headache and nausea medications that you are already familiar with and have used before. Nevertheless, we recommend consulting your primary healthcare provider for personalized advice

FAQ #3 – What happens if I feel unwell during the ascent?

If you feel unwell in the refuge, we will organize an early descent. If you feel unwell along the route, we will turn back. In the case of severe discomfort, the accompanying guide will alert rescue services, and you will be evacuated by helicopter.

FAQ #4 – Can I join a group if I’m alone?

No, we do not organize group climbs for this experience.

FAQ #5 – Can I rent high mountain clothing and equipment?

You can rent equipment (boots, poles, ice axe) in Alagna, Gressoney and Champoluc. However, it will not be possible to rent clothing.

FAQ #6 – If I do not reach the summit, will I be refunded?

No, there will be no refunds as you will have already used the refuge, guide, and lifts.

FAQ #7 – What is the required fitness level for the excursion?

To successfully complete this experience, it is essential to have good physical endurance and adequate training that allows you to sustain at least 4-5 hours of uphill hiking and the same amount of time downhill. Preparing with specific training will help you better face the challenges of the route and fully enjoy the adventure.

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Rey Ridge to Dufour Peak

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Categories: Activities, Monte Rosa ridges, Mountaineering

Insurance

If you want to go mountain climbing without worries, choose an international insurance policy like True Traveller or World Nomads: it covers mountain rescue, medical expenses, and repatriation. Also, remember to take out liability insurance to protect yourself against any accidental damage to others during your adventure.