Shopping Cart

Ascent to Castore: a waltz through my best thoughts

Between Myth and Reality: My Adventure at the Quintino Sella Refuge and the Ascent to Castore Castore is a 4000 accessible to many but not for the inexperienced. To conquer its peak, I decided to book a Monte Rosa guide to gain my goal and of being able to look at it from a different perspective
Alpinista sulla cresta del Castore con neve e luce del mattino sul Monte Rosa Mountaineer on Castor ridge with snow and early morning light on Monte Rosa
I’m not a mountaineer

I enjoy walking, but only when the sun is shining, the temperature is mild, and the effort is moderate. However, I am curious, I love stories, and I read the newspaper every morning. When at the beginning of August a few summers ago, I saw the news about the inauguration of the renovated Quintino Sella refuge in an environmentally friendly and sustainable version, I delved into it to understand, and I decided that I would have gone there. Whether the choice came out of boredom, curiosity, or an eco-friendly spirit doesn’t matter; the result was unforeseen, and the expectation far exceeded.
Reading about the wonders of the Quintino Sella refuge, I learned that it is the base for the ascent to Castore, one of the most accessible 4000-meter peaks of Monte Rosa. To me, who only knew Castore as the mortal son of Leda, offspring of Tyndareus born with the immortal Pollux in a whirlwind of mythological gossip, the Castore peak was just a mountain name among others. But I wasn’t aware of what an ascent to Castor entails.

Ascent to castor peak: a climb for many with guides from Alagna or Gressoney

Being a 4000 accessible to many but not for the inexperienced, I decided to book a Monte Rosa guide to look at Castore from a different perspective. The myth has always flattered me but that summer I needed a reality check! Getting to the Quintino Sella refuge was easy, a 3-hour trail with a final equipped route. I had a few thrills but which I faced chatting extensively with the guide, who tolerated me with patience.

The night in the refuge was easy

Quintino Sella at Felik is just as I had read in the newspaper: welcoming, warm, innovative, with a magnificent hall. I experienced it without worries, with a few beers and lots of chatter, as one can imagine an evening in a refuge. I didn’t realize I was at 3585 m.

Climbing Castore is not improvised

The next morning, Andrea, the guide who took care of my unsuspecting enthusiasm, made me get up at 4 am! In 3 hours, we were at the top of Castore, and those were hours I won’t forget. I learned not to get tangled in gaiters, to hold the ice axe the right way, and I let my best thoughts flow. Can’t say I didn’t make an effort, but it was a balanced commitment, rewarded by strong emotions. I peeked down at a sleeping Gressoney from above, breathed in the orange dawn in front of the Lyskamm, squinting to see the lights of Capanna Gnifetti. And finally, I emerged on a sharp ridge that scared me a bit, but Andrea taught me to handle it with the lightness of acquired professionalism.

And when I reached the summit, I had around me the Matterhorn, Gran Paradiso, Mont Blanc, Monviso, and I realize of how small but lucky I am.

Want information on prices and the program for a climb to Castore?

Share:

More Posts

I ski confidently on piste. Am I ready to try off-piste?

Confident on piste and curious about off-piste skiing? Find out which skills provide a useful foundation, why a private guide can help you make the most of your first day, and how shared group outings work. A practical starting point for enjoying natural snow with the right support.

winter mountain access

Winter Mountain Access: you can book the trip, not the snow

Powder is still a very good reason to come to the Monte Rosa, but it does not have to be the only one. Winter Mountain Access is about reading the conditions, adapting the plan and discovering different ways to move through the winter mountains with local IFMGA Mountain Guides.

Send Us A Message