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The 4000m Collection — Six Summits of Monte Rosa (Group)

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Level: 4

Season: Summer

Duration: 3 days

Participants: Max 3

My goal

Three days of mountaineering across six 4,000-metre peaks, including an overnight stay at Capanna Margherita, the highest mountain hut in Europe.

Climb six peaks above 4,000 metres in three days, following a high-altitude route across the glaciers and ridges of Monte Rosa.

This programme is designed for mountaineers who already have some experience and want to take their next step: linking several summits, spending consecutive days at altitude and discovering what it means to move through the high mountains rather than simply climbing one peak and returning to the valley.

We will begin with an ascent to Rifugio Mantova, before climbing Punta Zumstein (4,563 m) and reaching Capanna Margherita (4,554 m), where we will spend our second night.

Staying at Capanna Margherita gives us the opportunity to experience the mountain differently. We will have time to settle in, enjoy the evening light over the Alps and, weather permitting, watch the sunrise before setting off for the final day.

On the third day, we will continue across four more summits: Punta Parrot, Ludwigshöhe, Corno Nero and Piramide Vincent.

The aim is to complete a continuous mountaineering journey, where each ascent is part of a larger route. Reaching all six summits will depend on the conditions and on how the group is progressing.

Where you’ll go

We will start from Alagna or Gressoney, taking the lifts through Passo dei Salati to Punta Indren (3,275 m). From here, we will walk to Rifugio Città di Mantova (3,498 m), our base for the first night.

The following day, we will cross the Lys Glacier and climb towards Punta Zumstein (4,563 m), the highest summit of our itinerary. We will then continue to Punta Gnifetti, where Capanna Margherita stands at 4,554 metres.

On the final day, we will traverse the upper glaciers and snow ridges of Monte Rosa, with the objective of climbing Punta Parrot (4,435 m), Ludwigshöhe (4,342 m), Corno Nero (4,321 m) and Piramide Vincent (4,215 m).

We will then descend towards Rifugio Mantova and Punta Indren, returning to the valley by cable car.

What it takes

This is a Level 4 mountaineering programme, requiring good physical fitness, previous high-altitude experience and confidence moving on snow and glaciers.

You should already be familiar with using crampons and walking as part of a roped team. The route includes glacier crossings, snow slopes and exposed ridges, with difficulties ranging from F to PD depending on the section and conditions.

You need the endurance to complete several hours of uphill and downhill walking, particularly on the second and third days. We will spend two nights in mountain huts and a substantial part of the programme above 4,000 metres.

Being physically fit is important, but so is knowing how your body responds to altitude. Previous mountaineering experience will help you manage the effort, maintain a steady pace and enjoy the different stages of the journey.

This is not a suitable programme for your first experience with crampons or glacier travel.

How you’ll be guided

We will climb in a small group of no more than three participants per IFMGA Mountain Guide.

Our guide will check the equipment before departure, organise the rope team and choose the most suitable route according to glacier conditions, weather and visibility.

Throughout the three days, we will maintain a steady pace, taking into account the altitude, the technical sections and the physical condition of everyone in the group.

With only three participants, the guide can closely follow each mountaineer’s progress and manage the group through the more demanding sections of the route.

Our objective is to climb six summits, but the number of peaks we reach will always depend on the conditions and on the group’s ability to continue safely.

Price

Group climb: €1,050.00 per person

The departure is confirmed when the minimum number of 3 participants is reached.

What’s included

IFMGA Mountain Guide for 3 days
Return lift pass to Punta Indren
One night with half board at Rifugio Mantova
One night with half board at Capanna Margherita
Half board accommodation for the guide
Technical equipment: climbing harness and crampons

What’s not included

Accident insurance, meals not specified, anything not listed under “What’s included”.

Program

Day 1 — From Punta Indren to Rifugio Mantova

We will make our way independently from Alagna or Gressoney to Passo dei Salati, where we will meet our guide at 2:30 pm.

After checking our equipment and distributing the necessary technical gear, we will take the cable car to Punta Indren (3,275 m).

From there, we will begin our ascent towards Rifugio Città di Mantova (3,498 m). This first stage is relatively short, allowing us to settle into the high-altitude environment without a demanding first day.

Once at the hut, we will have time to organise our equipment, discuss the following day’s route and rest before the main ascent.

Dinner and overnight stay at Rifugio Mantova.

Elevation gain: approximately 220 m from Punta Indren
Walking time: approximately 1 hour

Day 2 — Punta Zumstein and Capanna Margherita

We will leave Rifugio Mantova early in the morning and begin our ascent across the Lys Glacier.

As we gain altitude, we will move through the wide glacier terrain of Monte Rosa, gradually approaching the upper slopes leading towards Punta Zumstein.

Our first objective will be Punta Zumstein (4,563 m), the highest peak of the itinerary. The ascent takes approximately five hours, depending on conditions and the pace of the group.

After reaching the summit, we will continue towards Punta Gnifetti and Capanna Margherita (4,554 m).

Unlike a traditional summit climb, we will not descend to the valley. We will spend the rest of the day at the hut, with time to recover from the ascent and enjoy the remarkable setting.

If the weather is clear, the evening offers an opportunity to watch the light change across the surrounding peaks before the sun disappears below the horizon.

Dinner and overnight stay at Capanna Margherita.

Elevation gain: approximately 1,100 m
Ascent time: approximately 5 hours to Punta Zumstein

Day 3 — Four summits and descent to the valley

We will start early, with the possibility of watching the sunrise from Capanna Margherita before setting off.

Our route will take us across four more 4,000-metre summits, beginning with Punta Parrot (4,435 m), whose snow ridge is one of the distinctive sections of this traverse.

We will continue towards Ludwigshöhe (4,342 m), Corno Nero (4,321 m) and Piramide Vincent (4,215 m), linking the summits through glacier crossings and sections of snow ridge.

This will be a long day requiring good endurance and concentration, particularly as we will already have spent two nights at altitude.

After the final summit, we will descend towards Rifugio Mantova and continue to Punta Indren, where we will take the lifts back to Gressoney or Alagna.

The guide may change the order or number of summits according to mountain conditions and the group’s progress.

Elevation gain: approximately 650 m
Expected return: around 4:30 pm, depending on conditions and lift operations

Equipment required

For the 4000m Collection, you will need:

Mountaineering clothing suitable for high altitude and changing weather conditions
Mountaineering boots compatible with crampons
30–35 litre backpack
Two breathable base-layer shirts
Long-sleeved thermal shirt
Warm fleece or mid-layer
Lightweight down jacket
Waterproof and windproof jacket
Windproof mountaineering trousers
Two pairs of warm mountaineering socks
Warm gloves and lightweight gloves
Warm hat and neck warmer
Sunglasses with category 3 or 4 protection
Mountaineering helmet
Ice axe with steel blade
Locking carabiner
Telescopic trekking poles
Headlamp and power bank
One-litre water bottle or thermos
SPF 50+ sunscreen and protective lip balm
Energy snacks and personal food supplies
Sleeping bag liner for the mountain huts
Personal medication and essential toiletries

We provide the climbing harness and crampons. If you have your own equipment, we recommend bringing it, provided it is suitable for the route.

After booking, we will send you a complete equipment checklist, including advice on clothing and technical equipment. You can also consult our mountaineering equipment guide.

Please, pay attention here

Mountaineering, ski touring, off-piste skiing and trekking take place in a natural, uncontrolled environment.
Weather conditions, snow, ice, terrain, visibility, altitude and physical fatigue can change rapidly and directly affect the course of the activity. For this reason, there is always an inherent level of objective risk, which cannot be eliminated but only managed.

All our activities are led by IFMGA Mountain Guides and Certified Hiking Guides (AMM).
The guide continuously assesses environmental conditions and the physical and mental state of participants, sets an appropriate pace, manages progression and ensures the correct use of equipment. If conditions require it, the guide may modify the itinerary or interrupt the activity, always in the interest of individual and group safety.

Participants are required to be in good physical and mental condition, adequately prepared for the level of the activity, and to follow the guide’s instructions at all times.

Group activities

During group outings, the pace is set according to the slowest participant. In case of fatigue or discomfort, the guide may decide to adjust the programme or return early. In the mountains, the group ascends and returns together.

Learn more here

F.A.Q.

**FAQ #1** – Do I need previous mountaineering experience?

Yes. This is a Level 4 programme for mountaineers who already have experience using crampons and moving on glaciers as part of a roped team. Some sections involve exposed snow ridges, so you should feel comfortable on this type of terrain.

**FAQ #2** – How fit do I need to be?

You need good endurance and the ability to walk uphill and downhill for several hours at a steady pace. The second and third days are particularly demanding because we will spend much of the time above 4,000 metres. Previous experience at altitude is strongly recommended.

**FAQ #3** – Can I join the climb on my own?

Yes. You can book an individual place and join other mountaineers. The group consists of three participants accompanied by one IFMGA Mountain Guide. We aim to bring together people with compatible fitness and mountaineering experience.

**FAQ #4** – What happens if the minimum number of participants is not reached?

The departure requires three participants. If the group is not complete, we will contact you to discuss the available alternatives, which may include another departure date.

**FAQ #5** – Is altitude sickness a concern?

Altitude can affect anyone, including experienced and well-trained mountaineers. Symptoms may include headache, nausea, dizziness or unusual fatigue. Good physical fitness does not prevent altitude sickness. Tell your guide immediately if you feel unwell, as descending may be necessary.

**FAQ #6** – Do I need to bring a sleeping bag?

No. Mountain huts provide bedding, but you must bring your own sleeping bag liner. A lightweight liner is sufficient and takes up very little space in your backpack.

**FAQ #7** – Will we definitely climb all six summits?

The six summits are our planned objectives, but reaching all of them cannot be guaranteed. Weather, glacier conditions, visibility and the group’s physical condition may require changes to the itinerary. The guide will decide which summits can be climbed safely.

**FAQ #8** – Will I receive a refund if we cannot reach all the summits?

No refund is provided simply because one or more summits cannot be reached. The guide may adapt the itinerary or turn back when mountain conditions or the condition of the participants make this necessary.

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The 4000m Collection — Six Summits of Monte Rosa (Group)

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Categories: Group hikes, Mountaineering

Insurance

Before departure, check that your insurance policy specifically covers mountaineering, glacier travel, altitude, trip cancellation, repatriation, and personal liability. For more information, read our complete guide to mountain insurance.

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The 4000m Collection — Six Summits of Monte Rosa (Group)