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Activities

Ski touring to Capanna Margherita

Level: 2
Season: Winter
Duration: 2 days
Participants: Max 5

My goal

Reach Capanna Margherita at 4,554 metres, on Punta Gnifetti, with touring skis. We’ll climb across the glaciers of Monte Rosa to reach the highest mountain hut in Europe.

This is a rewarding high-altitude ski touring ascent, but reaching the summit is only part of the experience. We’ll also need to manage our energy, adapt to the altitude and prepare for the descent.

The aim is to enjoy a complete ski mountaineering experience, combining the satisfaction of reaching one of Monte Rosa’s best-known summits with a long descent through its glacial terrain.

Where you’ll go

We’ll cross the glaciers of Monte Rosa towards Capanna Margherita, situated on Punta Gnifetti at 4,554 metres.

From the summit, we’ll enjoy views across Valsesia, the Po Valley and the surrounding Alps, weather permitting.

We’ll choose the ascent route and descent according to the snow, weather and mountain conditions. This flexibility is particularly important at high altitude, where conditions can change throughout the day.

What it requires

You need good physical fitness, previous ski touring experience and the ability to ski with control on different types of snow.

The ascent requires a steady pace and good endurance. At this altitude, even moderate physical effort can feel more demanding, so we’ll need to manage our energy carefully.

Reaching Capanna Margherita is only part of the day. You must also have enough energy and concentration for the return, including skiing on variable snow and glacial terrain.

How we’ll guide you

We’ll assess your ski touring experience and help you prepare for the ascent with our local IFMGA Mountain Guides.

During the climb, we’ll set a suitable pace and manage our progress across the glaciers. Your guide will choose the route, assess the snow and weather conditions and decide when roped travel or additional technical equipment is necessary.

We’ll also pay attention to how everyone responds to the altitude. If conditions or fatigue require it, we’ll adapt the programme.

Our aim is to help you reach Capanna Margherita with the preparation and energy needed to enjoy the entire experience, including the descent.

1 skier: €1,220.00
2 skiers: €720.00 per person
3 skiers: €540.00 per person
4 skiers: €460.00 per person
5 skiers: €410.00 per person

Travelling alone and want to join a group? Click here.

The price includes:

  • Two days with an IFMGA mountain guide.
  • Half-board accommodation at Rifugio Mantova.
  • Lift tickets as specified in the itinerary.
  • Any technical equipment required for the itinerary, as determined by the guide.

The price does not include:

Personal accident insurance, meals unless specified, and anything not listed under “The price includes”.

Day 0 – Meet your guide and prepare for the ascent

Before the trip, we’ll arrange a briefing with your IFMGA Mountain Guide, either at our office or remotely.

We’ll discuss your ski touring experience, fitness and preparation for the ascent. We’ll also check the equipment you’ll need and confirm where and when to meet.

The latest weather forecast and snow conditions will help us plan the route.

Day 1 – Ascent to Rifugio Mantova

We’ll meet your guide in Alagna or Gressoney, check our equipment and collect the necessary technical gear.

We’ll then take the lifts to Punta Indren (3,275 m), where we’ll begin our approach to Rifugio Mantova (3,498 m).

We’ll climb at a steady, comfortable pace. We’re already at high altitude, so there’s no need to rush. This first day will give us time to adjust to the altitude, become familiar with the mountain environment and prepare for the following day’s ascent.

Once at the hut, we’ll settle in, review the next day’s plan and prepare our equipment.

Dinner and overnight stay at Rifugio Mantova.

Day 2 – Capanna Margherita, 4,554 m

We’ll leave the hut early in the morning and begin our ascent towards Punta Gnifetti, crossing the glaciers of Monte Rosa.

We’ll maintain a steady pace and take breaks as needed. Along the way, we’ll assess the terrain, snow conditions and how everyone responds to the altitude.

Our goal is to reach Capanna Margherita, at 4,554 metres, the highest mountain hut in Europe.

If conditions allow, we’ll take a short break at the summit to enjoy the views and prepare for the descent.

We’ll then begin our return on skis. Our guide will choose the most suitable descent according to snow cover, mountain conditions and the group’s skiing ability.

We’ll use the lifts for the final return to the valley when necessary and available.

Maximum altitude: 4,554 m
Overnight stay: Rifugio Mantova, on Day 1
Total duration: 2 days, plus a preparatory briefing

  • Safety kit: avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe
  • Telescopic poles
  • Climbing skins
  • Ski touring skis and boots
  • Certified ski helmet
  • Ski crampons
  • Harness
  • Crampons
  • Ice axe
  • High-protection sunscreen
  • Ski gloves
  • Thermos flask
  • Sunglasses + ski goggles
  • 30-litre backpack
  • Sun hat + warm windproof hat
  • Wool socks
  • Layered ski clothing:
    • breathable base layer
    • 2 fleece layers
    • windproof shell
    • lightweight down jacket
    • ski / ski touring trousers

Mountaineering, ski touring, off-piste skiing and trekking take place in a natural, uncontrolled environment.
Weather conditions, snow, ice, terrain, visibility, altitude and physical fatigue can change rapidly and directly affect the course of the activity. For this reason, there is always an inherent level of objective risk, which cannot be eliminated but only managed.

All our activities are led by IFMGA Mountain Guides and Certified Hiking Guides (AMM).
The guide continuously assesses environmental conditions and the physical and mental state of participants, sets an appropriate pace, manages progression and ensures the correct use of equipment. If conditions require it, the guide may modify the itinerary or interrupt the activity, always in the interest of individual and group safety.

Participants are required to be in good physical and mental condition, adequately prepared for the level of the activity, and to follow the guide’s instructions at all times.

Group activities

During group outings, the pace is set according to the slowest participant. In case of fatigue or discomfort, the guide may decide to adjust the programme or return early. In the mountains, the group ascends and returns together.

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FAQ #1 – What happens in bad weather? Is the summit guaranteed?

The summit is not guaranteed. Weather and snow conditions are assessed right up until departure. If the ascent to Capanna Margherita is not feasible, the mountain guide may adapt the programme and suggest an alternative route. The guide may also turn back before the summit, even in good weather, depending on glacier conditions, how participants are coping with the altitude and the safety margin needed for the descent.

FAQ #2 – What skiing ability and fitness level are required?

This is a Level 2 programme. You need previous ski touring experience, must know how to use climbing skins and ski crampons, and be able to ski with control on different types of snow. Good fitness is required for several hours of ascent at high altitude while keeping enough energy for the descent. Before you book, we ask about your recent outings to assess whether the programme is suitable for you.

FAQ #3 – Can I join on my own? How many participants will there be?

Yes. You can book a private programme or view our Capanna Margherita group ski ascents and join other ski tourers. Private programmes accommodate up to 5 participants per guide. Group departures have a minimum of 3 and a maximum of 5 participants and are confirmed once the minimum number is reached.

FAQ #4 – How is the group’s pace managed?

The guide sets a pace everyone can sustain and monitors how participants are coping throughout the ascent. We ascend and return together: if someone becomes tired, feels unwell or encounters difficulties, the guide may adapt the programme or decide that the whole group should turn back. This applies to both private programmes and group departures.

FAQ #5 – Do I need high-altitude experience? Where do we stay?

Previous high-altitude experience is useful for understanding how you respond to exertion at altitude. The trip includes one night at Rifugio Mantova with half board. Capanna Margherita is the destination on the second day; we do not stay overnight there. One night at a mountain hut does not guarantee full acclimatisation. If you have never been to similar altitudes, please discuss this with us before booking.

FAQ #6 – Do I need all the equipment? Is an ABS backpack compulsory?

You must bring the equipment listed in the programme. A harness and crampons are included in the price. An avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe are compulsory: if you do not have your own, you can reserve a kit in advance for an additional €20. An ABS backpack is not compulsory. During the briefing, we will check your equipment and confirm any items we need to provide.

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Ski touring to Capanna Margherita

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Insurance

Before departure, check that your insurance policy specifically covers mountaineering, glacier travel, altitude, trip cancellation, repatriation, and personal liability. For more information, read our complete guide to mountain insurance.

WINTER

Level 1 – Explore
First freeride experiences. Controlled turns and a relaxed pace on accessible terrain.

Level 2 – Advanced
Confident skiing on ungroomed snow and able to maintain a good pace throughout the day.

Level 3 – Technical
Regular freeride experience, including on steeper terrain and in more exposed situations.


SUMMER

Level 1 – First experience
You should be comfortable with normal mountain hiking. No previous mountaineering or glacier experience is required.

Level 2 – Basic experience
You should already have completed hikes of several hours on mountain trails. Previous glacier experience or use of crampons is not required, but you should be ready to use them for the first time.

Level 3 – Mountaineering experience
Previous experience using crampons and travelling roped together on a glacier is required. The route may include short exposed sections.

Level 4 – Advanced experience
Solid experience using crampons and travelling roped together is required. The route may include exposed ridges, steep slopes and mixed terrain.

Level 5 – Experienced mountaineer
Strong experience on technical high-mountain routes is required. The route may include very exposed sections, climbing on rock, ice or mixed terrain, and may require knowledge of the main rope techniques.

The level indicates the technical experience required, not the physical effort.
The actual difficulty may vary depending on mountain conditions and the route.