Day 1 – Western Breithorn and Rifugio Guide di Ayas
We will meet in Cervinia and take the lifts towards Plateau Rosa, where our five-day traverse begins.
From the upper lift station, we will enter the glaciated terrain of the Breithorn Plateau and climb towards the summit of the Western Breithorn (4,164 m).
This first ascent will give us the opportunity to settle into our rope team, find a sustainable pace and begin adapting to the altitude.
After reaching the summit, we will descend across the glacier towards Rifugio Guide di Ayas, where we will spend our first night.
Dinner and overnight stay at Rifugio Guide di Ayas, 3,420 m.
Day 2 – Castore and Rifugio Quintino Sella
After breakfast, we will begin our ascent of Castore (4,226 m), one of the most distinctive summits along the traverse.
The route takes us across glaciated terrain before reaching the upper snow ridge, where we will need to move carefully and efficiently as a rope team.
The final section is narrow and exposed in places, requiring confident crampon technique, balance and concentration.
From the summit, we will descend towards the Felik Glacier and continue to Rifugio Quintino Sella.
Dinner and overnight stay at Rifugio Quintino Sella, 3,585 m.
Day 3 – Naso del Lyskamm, Piramide Vincent and Capanna Gnifetti
Our third day takes us deeper into the Monte Rosa massif.
We will leave Rifugio Quintino Sella and head towards the Naso del Lyskamm, a more technical section of the traverse that combines glacier travel with steep snow and ice terrain.
Depending on conditions, we may need to use the rope and crampons more actively as we negotiate the steeper passages.
We will then continue towards Piramide Vincent (4,215 m), crossing the upper glaciers before descending towards Capanna Gnifetti.
This is a demanding stage, requiring sustained effort and careful energy management.
Dinner and overnight stay at Capanna Gnifetti, 3,647 m.
Day 4 – Monte Rosa 4,000-metre peaks and Capanna Margherita
We will leave Capanna Gnifetti and climb across the upper Lys Glacier towards the highest part of Monte Rosa.
Depending on the weather, snow conditions and the group’s physical condition, we may include additional 4,000-metre summits along the way.
Our main objective is Punta Gnifetti (4,554 m), where Capanna Margherita stands directly on the summit.
Reaching the hut marks one of the most memorable stages of the tour. We will have completed another high-altitude day and will spend the night at 4,554 metres, surrounded by the glaciers and peaks of Monte Rosa.
Dinner and overnight stay at Capanna Margherita, 4,554 m.
Day 5 – Zumsteinspitze and descent to Gressoney
After our night at Capanna Margherita, we will begin the final stage of the traverse.
If conditions allow, we will climb Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m), the highest summit planned on our itinerary.
From here, we will descend across the glaciers towards the southern side of Monte Rosa, returning towards Punta Indren.
We will take the lifts down to Gressoney, where our five-day mountaineering journey comes to an end.
The programme includes the planned taxi transfer back towards Cervinia.
All summit ascents and the exact route depend on weather, snow and glacier conditions, as well as the group’s fitness and acclimatisation.
