Day 0 – Arrival in Alagna, at the foot of Monte Rosa
Our journey will begin in Alagna Valsesia, a small Alpine village on the Italian side of Monte Rosa, known for its Walser heritage and long mountaineering tradition, just 90 km from Milan Malpensa Airport.
Overnight stay: B&B in Alagna, including breakfast.
Day 1 – Cresta del Soldato and Punta Giordani (4,046 m)
Our first mountaineering day will take us along Cresta del Soldato, one of the classic high-altitude rock climbing routes on Monte Rosa.
From Alagna, we will take the Monterosa Ski lifts to Punta Indren, at 3,275 metres, before reaching the start of the ridge.
The route follows rocky terrain, with exposed sections requiring balance, precision and confidence when climbing in mountaineering boots.
During the ascent, we will focus on choosing secure footholds, moving efficiently and managing the rope. Our objective will not simply be to reach the summit, but to improve our technique on terrain that shares some characteristics with the Matterhorn.
We will also become more familiar with climbing together as a roped team, developing clear communication and a steady, consistent pace.
We will reach the summit of Punta Giordani, at 4,046 metres, before continuing to Capanna Gnifetti.
Spending the night at 3,647 metres will help us acclimatise and give us an opportunity to assess how we respond to altitude.
Dinner and overnight stay: Capanna Gnifetti (3,647 m), half board.
Day 2 – Punta Parrot (4,432 m), Corno Nero (4,322 m) and Rifugio Pastore
We will leave Capanna Gnifetti early and climb towards Colle del Lys, entering the vast glacial landscape of Monte Rosa.
Our objective will be to reach two more summits above 4,000 metres: Punta Parrot, at 4,432 metres, and Corno Nero, also known as Schwarzhorn, at 4,322 metres.
We will cross glaciers, snow-covered slopes and exposed ridges, including steeper sections requiring precise crampon technique.
This second day will allow us to continue acclimatising and assess our ability to maintain a steady pace for several hours above 4,000 metres.
After completing the climbs, we will descend towards Punta Indren and return using the mountain lifts.
We will then make our way to Rifugio Pastore, in Alpe Pile, beneath the magnificent south face of Monte Rosa.
Dinner and overnight stay: Rifugio Pastore, half board.
Day 3 – Recovery day at Rifugio Pastore and return to Alagna
After two demanding days at high altitude, we will take a day to rest and recover.
We will wake up at Rifugio Pastore, overlooking the impressive south face of Monte Rosa.
It will be an opportunity to relax and regain our energy in one of the most beautiful settings in Valsesia, beneath one of the most imposing mountain faces in the Alps.
There will be no summit to reach and no early start. We can enjoy a leisurely breakfast, rest and spend some time exploring the meadows and trails around Alpe Pile.
During the day, we will walk down to Alagna, where we will check into our B&B again.
The afternoon and evening will be free to rest, organise our equipment and prepare for the transfer the following day.
Overnight stay: B&B in Alagna, including breakfast.
Day 4 – Transfer to Cervinia and ascent to Capanna Carrel (3,830 m)
After breakfast, we will leave Alagna and travel to Breuil-Cervinia, at the foot of the Matterhorn.
Our days on Monte Rosa will have allowed us to refine our technique, improve acclimatisation and gain a clearer understanding of our abilities. The recovery day will have given us time to regain our energy. Now we will focus on our main objective.
In Cervinia, we will meet the guides who will accompany us on the Matterhorn. Each participant will have a dedicated IFMGA Mountain Guide, with a 1:1 guiding ratio.
Before setting off, we will check our equipment again and assess the conditions on the Lion Ridge.
We will reach the area around Rifugio Oriondé and continue along the Italian route towards Capanna Carrel, situated at approximately 3,830 metres.
The approach already involves rocky passages, exposed sections and fixed ropes. We will need to move carefully and efficiently, conserving energy for the following day.
At Capanna Carrel, we will prepare our equipment for the early start, discuss the final details of the ascent and try to get some rest.
Overnight stay: Capanna Carrel (3,830 m).
Day 5 – Matterhorn summit (4,478 m) via the Lion Ridge
We will leave Capanna Carrel very early, while it is still dark, and begin our ascent of the Lion Ridge, the historic Italian route to the Matterhorn summit.
A long day of technical mountaineering on exposed terrain lies ahead.
The route combines rock climbing, traverses, fixed ropes and steep sections. Progressing efficiently will require concentration, endurance and confidence when moving as a roped team.
The techniques practised on Monte Rosa, together with the acclimatisation gained and our recovery day, will help us manage the physical effort and maintain a steady pace.
If mountain conditions and our progress allow, we will reach the summit of the Matterhorn at 4,478 metres.
From the top, we will be able to admire some of the great peaks of the Western Alps, including Monte Rosa, where our journey began just a few days earlier.
The descent follows the same ridge and requires just as much attention and endurance as the ascent. We will need to conserve our energy and remain focused, even as fatigue begins to set in.
Our guide will manage the pace and continuously assess the mountain conditions and whether it is appropriate to continue.
We will return to Cervinia after completing the descent.
End of programme: Breuil-Cervinia.
