Monte Rosa climb: an unforgettable experience

The 4000-meter peaks of Monte Rosa: a story of a climb for many

On Monte Rosa, there are 4000-meter peaks within reach for many climbers, though not for the inexperienced. One truly beautiful ascent is the traverse connecting the Parrot, Ludwigshöhe, and Corno Nero peaks. This traverse is a harmonious blend of ridges and steep climbs interspersed with easier sections. It reaches three summits above 4000 meters without extreme challenges or significant technical difficulties. The route can be completed in two days with moderate elevation gains, making it suitable for climbers who have already taken some steps on glaciers and wish to advance to the next level. It is also a perfect path for those on the hunt for 4000-meter peaks.

The Night in the Hut isn’t always easy

The first goal is reaching Capanna Gnifetti, the historic base camp for almost all climbs on Monte Rosa. The journey includes an hour and a half of trail walking, ending with an equipped section that adds a bit of thrill.

Although Capanna Gnifetti is cozy, it is located at an altitude of 3647 meters. The rooms are dormitory-style with bunk beds, there are no showers, and there is a large terrace with a view. The atmosphere is bustling with climbers, lively and friendly, and the kitchen serves excellent meals, catering to vegetarians, vegans, those with food intolerances, and food lovers alike. Sleeping isn’t always easy, but you can rest.

A climb on Monte Rosa is never something you can undertake on a whim.

In the morning, you will rise early—around 4 or 5 a.m. The guide will set the time based on the weather, temperature, and frost. After two hours, you’ll reach Colle del Lys at 4200 meters, where a stunning view of the Matterhorn awaits. You’ll want to pause and take in the sight. The climb isn’t easy, but it’s a balanced effort rewarded by deep emotions. Leaving Capanna Gnifetti behind, with the quiet sounds of the night, you’ll begin the journey. Step by step, you’ll follow your guide with a clear mind, fully appreciating their professionalism and expertise.

Parrot peak

Punta Parrot stands as a prominent feature of Alagna’s skyline, with its sinuous, snow-covered ridge. While it may seem intimidating at first glance, reaching the summit is not overly difficult. The climb to the top is exhilarating and filled with emotions. After a steep ascent, you will suddenly find yourself at the summit, and at first, you might hesitate to look over the edge. From this vantage point, you will see the Valsesia 3000 meters below, a sight you would have imagined from the base of the peak.

As you traverse the crest of this 4000-meter summit, you will quickly adapt to walking along the narrow, snowy ridge. The route is straightforward and gently inclined, making the climb relatively easy. You will come to see it as a preferred pathway through the clouds, with little effort required to follow it. When you finally reach the top, you will stand at an elevation of 4434 meters.

Ludwigshöhe

From Punta Parrot, you’ll descend a gentle slope to Sesia Col, a section with an easier gradient. The Col offers a chance to rest and enjoy the landscape before starting the ascent to Ludwigshöhe. This next part is a short but steep climb up the smooth ridge to Ludwigshöhe’s flat summit at 4342 meters. Though brief, the steepness and effort needed make it a rewarding experience. Knowing the pre-summit rock is only 50 meters from the top gives a mental boost, helping you push through the final stretch to enjoy breathtaking views from your second peak of the day.

Schwartzhorn

From the Colle Zurbriggen, you will ascend a short but steep snow slope with an incline of about 50° to reach the summit. The final part of the climb takes you along a beautiful and harmonious rocky ridge, where the Madonnina statue stands majestically at the very tip of the peak. The careful and mindful movements required for this climb will help you focus on the moment and forget any physical fatigue. As you traverse the snow and ice, you will experience a kind of dance between your steps and the mountain. For me, mountaineering reaches its peak when the body and mind are in harmony. The physical exertion becomes secondary to the pursuit of balance and connection between yourself, the natural world, and your inner self.

The Christ of the Peaks

From Corno Nero, a brief descent will lead you to the base of the rock where the imposing statue of Christ of the Peaks stands at 4161 meters. Although I typically oppose the idea of human alterations to natural landscapes, I have to confess that the statue left a profound impression on me. At 3.60 meters in height and subject to the harshest weather conditions, it was entirely white and glistening under a thick layer of ice when I encountered it. Despite my reservations about its presence, I found it to be a touching and awe-inspiring sight. The final approach to the statue involves a short climb up the rock, assisted by steps and a rope, making the ascent both straightforward and enjoyable.