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Advanced Mountaineering Course on Monte Rosa – 3 Days (Group)

Monte Rosa Booking > Products > Advanced Mountaineering Course on Monte Rosa – 3 Days (Group)

Level: 4

Season: Summer

Duration: 3 days

Participants: Max 3

My goal

Three days to refine your rope team skills, climb Castore and put what you have learned into practice during the traverse of the Naso del Lyskamm.

Move beyond simply being guided on a rope and start understanding how a rope team works, how to manage it and how to adapt to different situations in high-altitude mountaineering.

This course is designed for mountaineers who already have experience and want to develop greater technical independence and a better understanding of the decisions involved in moving safely through the mountains.

We will work on crevasse rescue techniques, glacier rope team management, movement on steep slopes and short-roping techniques on rocky terrain.

The course is structured around two days of technical training followed by a third day entirely dedicated to practical experience. During the traverse of the Naso del Lyskamm, there will be no formal lessons. Instead, we will learn by observing the guide, understanding their decisions and applying the skills developed over the previous two days.

Where you’ll go

We will explore the high mountains above Gressoney, on the southern side of Monte Rosa, using Rifugio Quintino Sella, at 3,585 metres, as our base for the three days.

Starting from Staffal, we will take the lifts to Colle della Bettaforca and continue on foot to the hut.

On the second day, we will climb Castore (4,226 m), crossing the Felik Glacier and Colle del Felik. During the descent, we will practise short-roping techniques on rocky terrain in the Punta Perazzi area.

The third day will be dedicated to the traverse of the Naso del Lyskamm (4,272 m), a route where we can apply the techniques learned in a more complex and varied alpine environment.

What it takes

This is not an introductory course. To participate, you need previous glacier mountaineering experience, familiarity with crampons and ice axe techniques, and confidence moving as part of a rope team.

Good physical fitness is essential, as we will spend long days above 3,500 metres, travelling across glaciers, climbing steep slopes and negotiating exposed sections.

You do not need to know all the techniques covered in the course beforehand. Learning and practising them is precisely the purpose of the training. However, you should already have sufficient mountaineering experience to focus on developing your skills rather than simply managing the demands of the terrain.

How we’ll guide you

We will be accompanied by an IFMGA Mountain Guide throughout the three days, combining technical instruction with practical mountaineering experience.

During the first two days, we will alternate explanations, demonstrations and practical exercises, adapting the training to the participants’ experience and abilities.

On the final traverse, the guide will remain responsible for safety and rope team management, but learning will take place mainly through observation and experience.

The itinerary and activities may be adapted according to mountain conditions and participants’ abilities.

Price

€980.00 per person (max 3 participatnts)

The price includes

Three days with an IFMGA Mountain Guide
Two nights with half board at Rifugio Quintino Sella
Lift pass required for the programme
Technical instruction and practical exercises included in the course

Not included in the price

Transfers to Staffal, lunches and drinks not included in half board, personal insurance, personal expenses, anything not expressly listed under “The price includes”.

Program

Programme

Day 1 — Glacier rope team techniques and crevasse rescue

We will meet at 10:00 AM in Staffal, Gressoney, to meet the guide and the other participants, check our equipment and discuss the course objectives.

We will take the lifts to Colle della Bettaforca and continue towards Rifugio Quintino Sella.

The first day will focus on rope team management on glaciers. We will explore different roping-up techniques, appropriate distances between climbers and crevasse rescue procedures.

Through demonstrations and practical exercises, we will work on safety procedures and the skills needed to respond effectively in an emergency.

Dinner and overnight stay at Rifugio Quintino Sella, 3,585 m.

Day 2 — Castore: steep terrain and short-roping techniques

We will leave Rifugio Quintino Sella in the morning and climb Castore (4,226 m), crossing the Felik Glacier and Colle del Felik.

During the ascent, we will focus on managing the rope team as the terrain becomes progressively steeper. We will learn how to adjust spacing, rope length and movement techniques according to the slope and exposure.

The descent will be an important part of the training. In the Punta Perazzi area, we will practise short-roping techniques on rocky terrain, learning how to adapt belaying and rope management to different situations.

We will return to Rifugio Quintino Sella, where we can review the situations encountered and discuss the technical decisions made during the day.

Dinner and overnight stay at Rifugio Quintino Sella.

Day 3 — Naso del Lyskamm Traverse: learning through experience

The final day will be dedicated to the traverse of the Naso del Lyskamm (4,272 m).

There will be no scheduled lessons or structured exercises. Instead, we will spend the day mountaineering and applying the skills developed during the previous two days.

We will travel across glaciated terrain, steep slopes and exposed sections, observing how the guide assesses the terrain, chooses the route and continuously adapts rope team management.

Learning will happen through shared experience. We will see the techniques we have studied being used in real situations, gaining a better understanding of when, how and why they are applied.

We will complete the traverse and return towards the valley following the route selected by the guide according to mountain conditions.

Equipment required

For the advanced mountaineering course, you’ll need:

mountaineering clothing suitable for high altitude and changing weather conditions
mountaineering boots compatible with crampons
30–35 litre backpack
category 3 or 4 UV-protection sunglasses
SPF 50+ sunscreen
protective lip balm
warm gloves and a spare pair
headlamp
sleeping bag liner for the mountain hut
water and energy snacks

For the technical exercises and ascents, crampons, a climbing harness, an ice axe, a helmet and technical equipment for rope team management and crevasse rescue will also be required.

After booking, we will send you a complete equipment checklist, including details of the technical equipment available and what you need to bring yourself. In the meantime, you can consult our Monte Rosa mountaineering equipment guide.

Please, pay attention here

Mountaineering, ski touring, off-piste skiing and trekking take place in a natural, uncontrolled environment.
Weather conditions, snow, ice, terrain, visibility, altitude and physical fatigue can change rapidly and directly affect the course of the activity. For this reason, there is always an inherent level of objective risk, which cannot be eliminated but only managed.

All our activities are led by IFMGA Mountain Guides and Certified Hiking Guides (AMM).
The guide continuously assesses environmental conditions and the physical and mental state of participants, sets an appropriate pace, manages progression and ensures the correct use of equipment. If conditions require it, the guide may modify the itinerary or interrupt the activity, always in the interest of individual and group safety.

Participants are required to be in good physical and mental condition, adequately prepared for the level of the activity, and to follow the guide’s instructions at all times.

Group activities

During group outings, the pace is set according to the slowest participant. In case of fatigue or discomfort, the guide may decide to adjust the programme or return early. In the mountains, the group ascends and returns together.

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F.A.Q.

**FAQ #1** – What experience do I need to join the course?

You need previous glacier mountaineering experience, familiarity with crampons and ice axe techniques, and confidence moving as part of a rope team. This is not a beginner’s course. We will work on advanced techniques and travel through steep and exposed alpine terrain.

**FAQ #2** – Do I need to know crevasse rescue techniques already?

Not necessarily. Crevasse rescue is one of the main subjects covered on the first day. However, you should already have sufficient glacier mountaineering experience to follow the practical exercises.

**FAQ #3** – Does the course include Castore and the Naso del Lyskamm?

Yes. The ascent of Castore is planned for the second day, followed by the Naso del Lyskamm traverse on the third day. Both routes depend on weather, glacier conditions and participants’ abilities. The guide may modify the itinerary when necessary.

**FAQ #4** – Why are there no formal lessons on the third day?

Because we want to dedicate the final day to applying what we have learned. During the traverse, we will observe how the guide manages the terrain and rope team, learning through practical experience without constantly interrupting the climb for structured exercises.

**FAQ #5** – Can I join on my own?

Yes. You can book a private course or request to join a scheduled group departure. For group courses, we assess participants’ experience and fitness to create a group with compatible abilities.

**FAQ #6** – Where will we stay during the course?

We will spend both nights at Rifugio Quintino Sella, at 3,585 metres, with half-board accommodation.

**FAQ #7** – What happens if conditions prevent the traverse?

The guide will assess mountain conditions and may modify the itinerary or choose an alternative activity appropriate to the course level. Safety always takes priority over reaching the planned summits.

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Advanced Mountaineering Course on Monte Rosa – 3 Days (Group)

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Categories: Group hikes, Mountaineering

Insurance

Before departure, check that your insurance policy specifically covers mountaineering, glacier travel, altitude, trip cancellation, repatriation, and personal liability. For more information, read our complete guide to mountain insurance.

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Advanced Mountaineering Course on Monte Rosa – 3 Days (Group)