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Capanna Margherita Classic Ascent

Level: Enthusiasts
Start date: 1 June
End date: 15 September
Participants: Max 5

My goal

Have you ever aspired to conquer the Margherita Hut?
The ascent to Capanna Margherita, the highest refuge in Europe, is one of the most attained and thrilling experiences for mountain enthusiasts. From an elevation of 4554 meters on Punta Gnifetti, the horizon seems boundless, with the gaze sweeping from the dizzying south face of Monte Rosa over Alagna and Valsesia, and extending across the Po Valley to the Maritime Alps. The climb to Capanna Margherita is a challenging acsent with oneself, a test of endurance, a desire to fulfill, a goal to achieve, a journey through one’s emotions, and above all, an unparalleled adventure.
However, it is crucial to always respect the mountain. While the excursion does not involve high technical difficulties, it remains a trek in high mountains. It is essential to be aware that the departure is programmable but not always controllable, as it is closely dependent on the whims of the wind and snow.

The guides of Monte Rosa will sketch the path with you on your ascent to Capanna Margherita; they will be your references, the professionals born among these mountains to whom you will entrust your safety and your desires.

Tips for success

1 alpinist: € 1050,00
2 alpinists: € 610,00 / person
3 alpinists: € 470,00 / person
4 alpinists: € 390,00 / person
5 alpinists: € 350,00 / person

The price includes: IFMGA guide for 2 days, half board at Capanna Gnifetti or Mantova, round-trip cable car to Indren, technical equipment if needed (harness, crampons.)

Day 1

Meeting at Passo dei Salati at 2:30 PM, where we will rendezvous with the guide to inspect for the last time the equipment. We’ll ascend using cable cars to Punta Indren and then proceed on foot to reach the rifugio Mantova by approximately 5:00 PM. The initial ascent will be undertaken at a leisurely pace, with several stops to address potential altitude sickness concerns. Dinner and overnight stay

Day 2

With the first light of dawn, we will set out for Capanna Margherita. The group will reach the goal by mid-morning. After a short break to enjoy the panorama and recharge, we will return to Indren to descend by cable car.

– 5 layers of clothing for the upper body (thermal shirt, light fleece, heavy fleece, down jacket, anorak.)
– two set of gloves (soft and ski ones)
– sunglasses (with 3 or 4 protection)
– heavy trousers (windproof)
– underpants
– gaiters
– rigid, ankle height, waterproof boots.
– two pair of ski socks
– headlamp
– hat that covers your ears
– bag sheet for the hut
– sun screen & lip balm
– poles
– ice axe (if are used to it)
– helmet is recommended but not compulsory
– 1lt water bottle/thermos
– harness & crampons

Please note, a sleeping bag liner is mandatory in all mountain huts.
We suggest a lightweight, reusable sleeping bag liner. Let’s protect the mountains from waste
Our favorite sleeping bag liner

The climb to Margherita is for all the people who have a good level of training and know how to handle walks of 4/5h straight. You will reach the top in two steps, on the first day you’ll walk up the first part of the glacier, reaching the first hut in 1/1.5h. The difference in height between Gnifetti and Margherita, covered on the second day, is of 900m; that means that in order to reach the summit you’ll need to walk on a speed of 200/250m per hour in elevation.
The trip does not involve any particular technical difficulties but the path is entirely on high mountain, this tour is indeed a hike along the glacier where we will use a roped party, because the fall of somebody can easily be stopped by the weight of the others.
You will not find exposed points or edges to overcome; there are just two easy vie ferrate, one to reach Gnifetti hut and one to reach Cristo delle Vette peak.
Remember that acclimatization is the key to success! If you have lack of time the best choice is surely the two days trip, but we recommend to sleep in Alagna or Gressoney the day before departure.

On this mountain trip, each guide is allowed to accompany maximum 5 climbers.

FAQ #1 – Will I suffer from altitude sickness?
High altitude can cause altitude sickness, with symptoms such as headaches, nausea, fatigue, and difficulty concentrating. These symptoms can vary from person to person. Some people adapt more easily to altitude than others. If possible, gradual acclimatization by spending time at higher altitudes before reaching 4000 meters can help reduce altitude sickness symptoms. Good physical fitness can also aid adaptation to altitude.
FAQ #2 – Are there any medications that can help with altitude sickness?
Altitude sickness is highly subjective, and there is no one-size-fits-all solution. It is advisable to bring only the headache and nausea medications that you are already familiar with and have used before. Nevertheless, we recommend consulting your primary healthcare provider for personalized advice
FAQ #3 – What happens if I feel unwell during the ascent?
If you feel unwell in the refuge, we will organize an early descent. If you feel unwell along the route, we will turn back. In the case of severe discomfort, the accompanying guide will alert rescue services, and you will be evacuated by helicopter.
FAQ #4 – Can I join a group if I’m alone?
Certainly! Choose your experience from the group hikes page by clicking here
FAQ #5 – Do I need to bring a sleeping bag?
No, Monterosa’s refuges provide pillows, duvets, or blankets! However, the use of a sleeping bag liner is mandatory, and you can purchase it for a minimal cost at specialized stores. Click here for more information (affiliate link)
FAQ #6 – Can I rent high mountain clothing and equipment?
You can rent equipment (boots, poles, ice axe) in Alagna, Gressoney and Champoluc. However, it will not be possible to rent clothing.
FAQ #7 – If I do not reach the summit, will I be refunded?
No, there will be no refunds as you will have already used the refuge, guide, and lifts.
FAQ #8 – What is the required fitness level for the excursion?
To successfully complete this experience, you need good physical endurance and training that allows you to sustain at least 4/5 hours of uphill walking plus the same amount in descent.

Populate the form and secure your spot now!

Capanna Margherita Classic Ascent