You climb it, you caress it, you observe it through the seasons, the clouds, and in the footsteps of mountaineers.
After thirty years working as a mountain guide, I can say that Castore is one of the peaks closest to my heart.
Not just for the beauty of the route, but for what it manages to convey to those who choose to walk it.
Castore isn’t a summit to simply reach. It becomes a companion—one that guides you to taste the real mountain, without exaggeration, but with all the completeness that high altitude can offer. For many mountaineers, it’s their first real high-altitude ascent Alps experience.
A welcoming mountain, worthy of respect
Standing at 4,226 metres, Castore belongs to the Monte Rosa massif, right on the border between the Aosta Valley and the Swiss Valais. It’s the twin of Pollux, separated by the Verra Pass—two peaks with different characters, constantly in dialogue.
What makes this summit so beloved is that it’s the perfect stepping stone into the world of altitude and alpine difficulty. Whether you’re a seasoned trekker or curious beginner, it offers the perfect entry into the world of high-altitude ascent Alps.
It’s the peak that turns a passionate hiker into an alpinist.
Some experience on glacial terrain is needed. But with an alpine guide beside you, you’ll learn to tackle the steep slope of the Felik Pass, the exposed snowy ridge between Punta Fillak and the main summit, and your gaze will truly open to a 360° view of the ocean of peaks ahead.
The starting point: Rifugio Quintino Sella al Felik
The beating heart of the Castore climb is Rifugio Quintino Sella, perched at 3,585 metres.
It’s a historic refuge, recently renovated with care for the environment and sustainability. The staff is warm and passionate about the human side of alpinism.
The dining room feels like a balcony suspended over the Lyskamm ridge, the Aosta Valley, and—on clear evenings—even as far as the Maritime Alps.
The approach from Colle della Bettaforca (2,727 m), reached via the lifts from Staffal, takes about three hours. Around 3,500 m, the trail becomes an airy rocky ridge equipped with fixed ropes—a true introduction to the sensations of a high-altitude ascent Alps.
The air gets thinner, the landscape opens up, and every step requires awareness. You begin to feel that shift—both in altitude and perspective.
Summit day: the sunrise that changes everything
From the refuge, you strap on crampons and step onto the Felik Glacier, heading north. Silence reigns in the early morning, broken only by the sound of crampons on snow. In summer, under a clear sky, you start the climb beneath the stars. Then, slowly, the sky changes: violet, orange, pink, gold—a gift that never gets old.
You reach the area beneath Punta Perazzi, then cross—ice axe in hand—up the steep slope to Felik Pass at 4,061 metres.
From this pass, which lies on the ridge between Castore and Lyskamm West, you climb to Punta Felik (4,174 m). The slope soon becomes a soft ridge, and the exposure begins.
This is the most scenic part of the route: Castore’s south-east ridge. A thin, sometimes sharp, line of snow.
Focus is essential with every step. It’s the kind of movement that sharpens the senses. The strongest emotions rise to the surface. The tiredness fades, and your gaze is drawn to the summit—so close now. Your mind slows down.
The summit—and what it leaves with you
Reaching Castore’s summit is a moment that stays with you. The view is one of the finest in the Alps: Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, Gran Paradiso, Monviso, the Breithorn group, the Lyskamm, and further on—Capanna Margherita, Nordend, Dufourspitze, Punta Parrot. A crown of giants surrounding you, suspending you—if only for a moment—between earth and sky.
It’s not just about altitude. It’s the atmosphere. The breath that slows down. The silence. The awareness of being right there, in balance with everything around you.
Who is this ascent for?
Castore is perfect for those who’ve already had a first experience on a glacier—perhaps up to Capanna Margherita—and want to take a technical step forward. You’ll need a decent level of fitness, a willingness to listen, and an open attitude.
This climb teaches you: how to move with awareness, read the terrain, trust your guide—and trust yourself. To discover your limits and push them, gradually. It’s a mountain that offers a rewarding, balanced, and powerful experience.
The value of an experienced mountain guide
Leading someone on Castore is not just a technical task. It’s a relationship of mutual trust. As a mountain guide, my role is to create the best conditions for a safe, deep, and calm experience.
It’s not just about tying into a rope. It’s about building a connection—where we listen, trust, and share the journey.
Over the years, I’ve guided all kinds of people on Castore: young and old, athletes and dreamers, seasoned hikers and curious beginners.
Every time, on that ridge, a new connection is born. A new story is added to the mountain I share.
Castore: a chapter in your mountain story—not just a summit
Castore is not something to tick off a list. It’s a peak to approach with presence, awareness, and an open heart.
Every step towards its summit invites you to slow down, to observe, to learn. It’s an encounter with the mountain—but also with yourself.
